Kango to break up previous fence post concrete?

[JamesA]

Can anyone offer any advice as to whether I need a kango breaker and what level I need?

11 of the 14 fence posts I'm replacing are concreted in.
I don't know whether to break up all the concrete and put the posts in the same place or move a few feet along to start in a fresh spot.

If I move the posts a few feet, I think I'll still have a problem.
I'm going to be using 6 inch concrete gravel boards and need a flat surface. Therefore they would rock on the previous concrete where it sticks up through the soil.

If I break up all the concrete will the holes be too big? Would I need to fill round the posts with hardcore?
If I just take the top off the old concrete to make it level would I still need to hire a decent breaker?

The only other issue is that our house and the neighbours are parallel with the current fence having a gate on each side at the end.
Is it good etiquette for the fence to start right at the end of the houses?
Would it be a bit off to move the post back a few feet?

 

[Diyisfun]

Hire a breaker, the concrete you break off can be used as hard core to fill the new hole. I work for a hire company, if you are N. London (Enfield) email me you can have one at a good price.

 

[JamesA]

Thanks for offering, but I'm up here in Peterborough.
Can you offer any advice on which I should choose from:
http://www.hss.com/c/1014415/Breakers.html

I'd want to break up the concrete around 11 fence posts within a few hours.

 

[Diyisfun]

Let the guys at hss tell you. Just tell them what you need to do.

 

[rossy2]

hello i have just done the sa me i tried without a kango and it takes hours just to do one i hired a kango and it takes about 5 mins per post the hire company will tell you which one

 

[Thermo]

stagger the posts. a kango or similar will do the job for breaking the top part of the concrete off. if you do need to break any out its better to break a hole through the centre of the existing concrete for the post to slot in and concrete it back in place as it gives a more secure fixing.

theres no real problem where the fence starts or ends.

 

[JamesA]

Thanks again for the advice.
I hired a vibration damped breaker in the end:
http://www.hss.com/g/2151/Vibration-Damped-Breaker-110v.html

It did the job.
The only tricky bit was it tended to get stuck in the soil if you tried to drill straight down and not at an angle.

For people searching, I'd say definitely look at where the pipes are on your plans.
The idiots before us decided to put a fence post right next to a pipe and I could have easily gone through it!

Those hire places have got some cheek charging you to sharpen the attachments as well.

 

[Diyisfun]

Those hire places have got some cheek charging you to sharpen the attachments as well.

If you took it back not used they wouldnt charge for sharpening.
There are people that hire breakers & maybe take points & chiesels as though dont know what they need, they are only charged for whats used.

So what would you suggest is the fair way?

 

[JamesA]

There are people that hire breakers & maybe take points & chiesels as though dont know what they need"

Yep, that sounds just like me

Its only £3 and no big deal.
It's just not good when you get a separate charge. It makes you wonder why you're paying to maintain tools that they're hiring out and not them.

 

[Thermo]

because its a business and not a charity, otherwise everyone would pay an inflated price for the hire to cover all the additional wear