Kitchen cabinet fitting advice.

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Ive just bought some lovely costa rica kitchen units from wickes, certainly were not cheap, ive built them and put them in place, but they seem to be a little shaky, am i missing a trick ?

I've never done anything like this before and was under the impression most kitchens and units are bolted to the wall but the actual backs of these have those flimsy mdf board things ? so is it a case that when i put the worktop on and seal it down it will become nice and solid ? do I have to and is it a good idea to bolt the worktop to the wall or just seal it to the units.

thanks.
 
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Were there no brackets included to hold the base units to the wall? I find that a little surprising since both my parents MFI kitchen and my recently installed IKEA kitchen all have a bracket to just hold the unit in place.

the back of the units is usually flimy but thats nothing to worry about, any bracket would screw into the sides of the cabinet and then into the wall. The ones with my ikea kitchen are chunky enough to hold the cupboard in place with no legs attached (not that you'd want to), they didn't move a bit once in place.
 
ahh i see i did get small metal L shaped brackets not big ones though, i will reassess and have another look, thanks very much.
 
the holes arent pre drilled for the brackets i guess its a case you have to drill them yourself ?
 
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They should be pre drilled, what about taking some pictures of your left over fixings and we can offer better advise.
 
I think the poster meant pre drilled in the base unit. The brackets most likely are drilled and even slotted on one hole I guess.

I made my own brackets as I thought the supplied ones too flimsy.

Here is a pic of a base unit for the gas hob with 2 brackets drilled to the wall. The back panel had yet to be fitted.

View media item 19480
 
The units should also be screwed to each other as well as secured to wall.
 
Thanks all heres the finished article.

next will be the wall units to match the length of that, another question is theres plaster board on the walls, what fixings are best and strong enough for wall units when attaching to plaster board.

S3700200.jpg
 
there's a reason the holes aren't pre-drilled.. you may have to trim the back of the units down to allow for an out of square wall or make notches for pipes etc so they cannot guarantee where you will be putting them..
 
ttp://www.woodfit.com/product_info.php?cPath=115_15&products_id=193&Name=Cabinet+Hanging+Rail+-+2.5mt.+-+Steel
They are available cheaper elsewhere but at least you know what to look for now.
You mean this
http://www.woodfit.com/product_info...3&Name=Cabinet+Hanging+Rail+-+2.5mt.+-+Steel.

It's best to locate the stud work in the wall and use that if you can, this is rarely possible without pre planning or taking the boards out and placing some nogins in, but if all else fails use hollow wall anchors.
Unless the wall is dot'n'dab, then use masonry plugs.
 

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