Kitchen electrical planning

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Hi all,

First time poster. I’m currently designing a new kitchen and am trying to work out a logical electrical plan.
There is currently a ring main (2.5mm TE) and a radial (2.5mm TE) both RBD protected from the MCU supplying the kitchen. The combo boiler has already been moved onto its own radial.

I’ve called all the manufacturers and checked amperage and installation instructions (hardwire/plugged etc)

Main question was for the ovens. I initially had the 13 amp single oven on the ring but would prefer it to be on a dedicated radial with the microwave combi. Can these just be wired in series to backing plates or would you downfuse and put a 13amp FCU between them?

Any suggestions/amendments to the following plan? Had to do it the old fashioned way as my laptop has died..

Thanks in advance.
 

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You can't get a 32 amp FCU otherwise OK. You can get a double cooker outlet plate, and you can get a cooker isolation switch. Not worth DIY'ing kitchen electrics in Wales, do to cost the register the work, as in Wales the kitchen is still a special location, I think it's OK to DIY in England

One does need to be careful with RCD as an RDC is a completely different thing, mainly used with EV charging. Dyslexia rules KO! Do remember to use safe routes, they are in Wiki remember with inspection and testing to ensure it is a ring, plug in testers can show L-N reversal etc. But will not show if ring is broken.
 
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That’s great thanks. I’ll change the oven radial to standard 45amp iso switch to control them both. Had t accounted for the fact 6mm could take >45amps.
 
That’s great thanks. I’ll change the oven radial to standard 45amp iso switch to control them both. Had t accounted for the fact 6mm could take >45amps.
It cant. Certainly it will be <45amps and may be less than that. The current carrying capacity of any cable will depend on the installation method.
6mm² T&E when installed in the most perfect conditions (REFERENCE METHOD C - CLIPPED DIRECT) is rated at 47amps maximum.
BUT, the same cable installed as REFERENCE METHOD A (IN CONDUIT IN WALL) is rated at only a maximum of 32amps.

This is one of the many reasons why the installation of a new circuit is NOTIFIABLE work.
 
Assuming it’s installed ref method
It cant. Certainly it will be <45amps and may be less than that. The current carrying capacity of any cable will depend on the installation method.
6mm² T&E when installed in the most perfect conditions (REFERENCE METHOD C - CLIPPED DIRECT) is rated at 47amps maximum.
BUT, the same cable installed as REFERENCE METHOD A (IN CONDUIT IN WALL) is rated at only a maximum of 32amps.

This is one of the many reasons why the installation of a new circuit is NOTIFIABLE work.
Assuming it’s installed ref method A, are we looking at 10mm TE with 42amp Fuse, using a 32mm breaker in the kitchen or splitting them into discrete radials (this seems a bit excessive). Note I’m not installing this (it’s part P). Just planning my kitchen and like to be informed
 

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