Kitchen fitting

[Heather2011]

Hi,

We're planning to fit an ikea kitchen ourselves - finger crossed! I have a few questions and was hoping to get some thoughts/advice from the forum.

1. Ikea has advised that all their base units are designed to be wall-hang and the legs are not designed to support the weight of the units. However, part of our kitchen walls are stud walls with no plywood backing so I'm not sure if the plasterboard can support the weight of the units. Could anyone advise whether base units have to be hanged on the wall or can we be cheeky to just leave them supported by the legs? If they have to be wall hang, is it good idea to use those special plasterboard fittings or should I consider apply a plywood in the back - the stud walls are still being built so if needed then this can be done.

2. Wall units - we are having some wall unites and a cooker wood on the stud walls. My carpenter thinks that it's fine to hang them use the special plasterboard fittings. I have heard stories that cupboards teared off from stud walls but he doesn't think that will happen, provide if the fittings are installed properly. Could anyone advise if this is a good idea, or should I stick to plywood for peace of mind?

Would appreciate any thoughts here.

Thanks, Heather

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Could anyone advise whether base units have to be hanged on the wall or can we be cheeky to just leave them supported by the legs? If they have to be wall hang, is it good idea to use those special plasterboard fittings or should I consider apply a plywood in the back - the stud walls are still being built so if needed then this can be done.

If you leave them cheekily hanging, they'll sag or fall over time. Don't. Plasterboard fixings are a bit weak for the weight that most people put in their lower cans (think vast-iron and glass cookware, etc - my cookware cupboard must have 50kg or more in there). If I were installing it I'd consider chopping out a length of plasterboard, say 250 to 300mm wide and fixing a piece of 12mm plywood or chipboard onto the studs behind the units. That will carry any amount of weight you like. Done carefully this bit should be behind the units and in any case you'll hopefully be putting in somethink like a tile splashback which will cover any damage to the PB

2. Wall units - we are having some wall unites and a cooker wood on the stud walls. My carpenter thinks that it's fine to hang them use the special plasterboard fittings. I have heard stories that cupboards teared off from stud walls but he doesn't think that will happen, provide if the fittings are installed properly.

Good luck if you want to hang them on PB fixings - just don't go putting your Royal Doulton or canned goods in them! Over the years I have turned out a few times to sort out the result of that sort of corner cutting. In domestic installations I reckon it pays to remember that people have kids, and kids climb! For that reason I also fix the tops of bookcases to walls, too. For kitchens I tend to throw away the manky mickey mouse hangers that kitchen firms supply and buy strips like these and use them instead because you can generally get enough fastenings into the studs to carry a lot of weight (they will need some PB fixings as well). You will have to notch out the backs of the cabs to take them, but the notches aren't seen. The alternative is a plywood pattress again

 

[iwaters]

I've never done an Ikea kitchen so don't know about using legs rather than wall hanging. I wouldn't deviate away from the suppliers instructions too much, because if it fails they wont want to know.

Plaster board fittings are not going to be enough to hold these cabinets.

As the stud walls are still being built my advice would be to speak the builder and get him (or her) to add some additional 2x4s (called noggins) between the studs at and appropriate height for both the lower and upper cupboards. You can the screw directly into these to fix the cabinets.

Also when fitting them try and get some screws directly into the studs to transfer the weight load down the studs to the floor plate.

If there are heavy loads like a cooker then the builder could double up some 2x4s either side to create a stronger structure to hold them

 

[kjacko]

Is this a new invention then?
I installed our ikea kitchen about a year ago now, all on legs, no mentioned of wall hanging base units. Are you sure? Seems a little too much too ask, as it opens up a whole new can of worms when you go kitchen shopping in ikea.
You'll definitely need to take the type and strength of walls into account as well as what's going in the units before purchashing, that just doesn't sound right to me. And for what purpose? Kicker boards hide the feet anyway? I know some don't have kickers and the feet are deliberately visible, but still.....weird!

Personally, i'd go for a traditional foot mounted unit, otherwise i can see loads of trouble with this.

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

I suspect wires are a bit crossed here, all the weight should be on the legs. Some kitchens do not fix at all to the walls. If the stud walls are going up, a row of 4"x2" noggings on edge (pieces of wood between uprights) for the floor cabinets and wall hung cupboards would help.

 

[foxhole]

Legs on kitchen units are designed to take there weight surprised by the info you received from ikea, they are also fixed to the wall to prevent movement and should also all be connected to each other to gain strength from being one unit.Would help to know what type of wall you have , is it on studwork or dot and dab on blockwork.
Definitely some wires crossed the walls already exist according to OP.

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

the stud walls are still being built so if needed then this can be done.

Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/woodwork/kitchen-fitting.330739/#ixzz20WAxSaXN

No wires crossed here

 

[joinerjohn]

Just be aware that IKEA base units have virtually no service void (room for pipes and wiring etc) at the back of the units. Therefore all plumbing and electrics need careful planning before fitting your units.
It's quite usual for a few base units to be fixed back to the wall (say every second or third unit) Units not fixed back to the wall can be screwed/fixed to the units next to them (that are fixed to the wall) Whilst your stud walls are going up, work out what height the fixings for base and wall units are going at and fix noggins at these heights (as others suggest) .