Kitchen floor panel size

[JohnD]

I have to rip out some stupid 18mm chipboard from my kitchen floor and replace with 18mm WBP ply. Bit of a tedious job as I have to hump all the cabinets and appliances out of the way.

It struck me that on vary rare occasions I need to get at cables and pipes under the kitchen floor. I was thinking of putting 600mm-ish sq panels (subject to joist spacing) round the outside of the room, so I might only have to move a single appliance to get access. A little of this would protrude beyond the plinth which runs about 550mm from the wall. Apart from that I will be using 8x2 sheets as I can carry them upstairs and they replace the old chipboard sheets of the same size.

Are there any downsides to this idea?

 

[noseall]

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Are there any downsides to this idea?

you'll need to fix a tree full of noggings maybe?

 

[JohnD]

do I need to nog under every join that is not over a joist? It will be square-edged for ease of lifting. (I have not lifted it yet but nail heads appear to be at 400mm centres, so I suppose I will use pieces 400 x 600 or maybe 800 x 600). I will not be walking on this part, it will be under the cabinets and appliances.

When I do the rest of the floor with 8 x 4 sheets, do I have to nog under all the long edges? the existing floor is not, but it is badly laid chipboard and cracking up which I don't want the new floor to do, hence ply.

 

[masona]

I will not be walking on this part, it will be under the cabinets and appliances.

Not sure if I'm reading this correctly, is it not possible to modify the cabinet so the bottom shelf base of the unit is removable on a couple of runner? This way you could get to it quickly without have to take the unit out.

 

[JohnD]

But is is the cables and pipes under the floor I might want to get at (that's why I thought it would be helpful to have small flooring panels)... if I do the whole floor in 8x2 or 8x4 sheets, then I either have to take the whole sheet up (and move all the units standing on it), or cut a hole in it.

My thought was that I could pull out, say, the dishwasher and take up a panel in the floor beneath its space.

(My kitchen units are rigid anyway)

As all the units are on adjustable feet, it is possible to slacken off the legs of one unit, and slide it out from under the worktop to gain access to the floor beneath.

 

[ColJack]

the only downside i can see is that if your joists are 2" wide then you will only have 1" of the hatch resting on the joist..

if you are then putting heavy appliances on it then i'd be worried..

I would "buddy up" the joists where you are doing this and nogin under the perpendicular edges.. give it something to support the weight..

is the floor above a void? if so then only 1 trap may be needed and can be put in a position not likely to be under a cabinet ( IE by the door.. ) then you just crawl under the floor to where you need to get..

 

[JohnD]

no, the floor is above the garage, so I can't crawl there (skimmed plasterboard for fire resistance, plus fibreglass insulation.

Is the 1" bearing not enough, then? Surely that's what you'd normally do when putting ply or chipboard down?

All the appliances and cupboards have feet, so there will be spot-loads.

I don't mind putting a few nogs in, but it would be tedious to double up every joist.