Kitchen floor

[chriselevate]

Hi,

I had a problem with the wooden floor in my kitchen so I ripped it up a year ago and dropped in a damp proof course and concreted over it. The part I ripped up was about 1/4 of the whole kitchen (the kitchen is massive!)

Here is a photo of the situation now:

My dilema is.... do I...
1. Take the rest of the kitchen floor up and concrete?
2. Try to level it off now and then tile over the top?

Option 1 is going to require a good few ton of ballast and a lot of wood to dispose of so I'm not too keen.

Option 2 means I'll need to somehow level the concrete I laid (it's not bad but not great!!!) and then join the two heights.

My questions are:
1. What do you think the best option will be?
2. Could I pull up the remainder of the floorboards (3/4 or the kitchen) and marine treated ply over the whole thing with the right thickness of ply? If so how could I level the concrete and how would I ply over the top of this?

I'm looking to end up with a tiled floor in the end by the way.

Thanks

 

[chriselevate]

Can anyone help with this?

Thanks

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

This stuff: http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/154050 will get the concrete level without too much trouble, but can prove an expensive option if you've a large area to fill. Depends what you want to spend I suppose.

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks for that.

After this stuff goes on how would you ply over it? The reason I say ply is because I'll be taking up the floor boards in the rest of the kitchen and then ply over it all.

 

[chriselevate]

Anyone got any ideas on this?

Thanks

 

[hammerswinger]

If you use the stuff from Wickes you could try to keep it at the same height as the tops of the joists, then when you ply the rest of the kitchen the ply would be stuck down to the concrete at the correct level as the rest of the floor.

Or you could ply the rest of the kitchen and ply around your concrete, then use the Wickes stuff to bring the concrete up to the same level as the ply.

That's all I can think of doing.

 

[chriselevate]

So the ply could screw to the joist but how could I fix the ply to the wicked levelled concrete? What glue/fixings would you use so it doesn't move?

Thanks

 

[Nige F]

Hi,

I had a problem with the wooden floor in my kitchen so I ripped it up a year ago and dropped in a damp proof course and concreted over it. My dilema is.... do I...
1. Take the rest of the kitchen floor up and concrete?
2. Try to level it off now and then tile over the top?



I'm looking to end up with a tiled floor in the end by the way.

Thanks

What was the original problem ? . If you remove ventilation to the other (wood?) floors by laying a concrete one - which should have insulation in - then you are going towards more problems . You probably should have repaired the wood part of the floor and addressed any ventilation issues @ the time . Sorry, but it`s true

 

[hammerswinger]

So the ply could screw to the joist but how could I fix the ply to the wicked levelled concrete? What glue/fixings would you use so it doesn't move?

Thanks

Try liquid nails or some sort of panel adhesive like Grip fast.

Nige F raises a good point, make sure you haven't blocked any ventilation to the rest of the wooden floor or you could face problems in the future.


Cheers.

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks guys.

It's an extension built 50 years ago and problem was where the outside ground level was the sand as the internal wooden floor. The floor was only 2 foot deep and there were no air bricks or ventilation to any of it anyway.

I've chopped the outside ground down 2foot and filled with stone in order to create a soak away to get the water away. The part I've concreted has been dropped into a DPU so hopefully there'll be no penetrating damp coming in or rising damp causing problems.

Hope this makes sense.

Thanks

 

[Nige F]

That does make sense and means the original should have been concrete - probably cheaper to sling a wooden floor over the void than to find loads of hardcore and mix concrete then screed - 50 yrs ago. But now you can get crushed hardcore and readymix concrete - and pre mixed screed . All delivered. The main problem as I see it is trying to tile over a floor with both concrete and wood - as it happens this scenario has frustrated me in both my last house and this one In the hallways in both houses , I wanted to tile but have concrete sections then wood . Maybe the tiling forum can give you a definite answer and a way forward . Good Luck.

 

[AlanHamill]

That does make sense and means the original should have been concrete - probably cheaper to sling a wooden floor over the void than to find loads of hardcore and mix concrete then screed - 50 yrs ago. But now you can get crushed hardcore and readymix concrete - and pre mixed screed . All delivered. The main problem as I see it is trying to tile over a floor with both concrete and wood - as it happens this scenario has frustrated me in both my last house and this one In the hallways in both houses , I wanted to tile but have concrete sections then wood . Maybe the tiling forum can give you a definite answer and a way forward . Good Luck.

I agree with you..