Kitchen hood extractor system

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Hi all,

I feel a bit cheeky asking what are very probably 'stupid' questions, and i feel i should be at least be buying somebody a pint or something.....dont take me up on that though i am a Jock. Well here goes with another one:

I'm about to fit a Rangemaster cooker, all the electrics to the original cooker are in place...minus the very basic extractor fan electrics that seemed to be lamp electric flex twisted together and covered with tape.

The new extractor hood is a Rangemaster type 120. input Watts i believe is 145W at max blow with the addition of two 40W lights so a total of 225W for the hood and lighting.

The questions are:

1. For a cooker hood of this type do i need a seperate feed from the consumer box or can i take it from the main cooker feed and fused connector

2. If i take the feed from the original cooker fused connector do i need another fused connector strictly for the hood.

3. And lastly if it is taken from the original cooker feed what size wire should i use to connect.....not the original size thats for sure.

All the tiles are off and the blank canvas approach is in place. Anything can be done before the cooker and hood gets here. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Dinger
 
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Ahh well, if you're a sweaty sock I don't know if I should... ;)

There's no need for a seperate supply. What size is the cooker supply? Can you get access to the ring (for the sockets) in the kitchen?
 
Thanx Spark,

After todays abysmal display of rugby i'm thinking of leaving anyway.... lol.

The cooker supply is 40 amps cabling. the range cooker is dual fuel so only needs elec for the ovens not the hob which is gas.

as i said everything is off the walls at mo.....wife is days away from phoning DIY SOS.....lol...so access not a problem

going to kip now so talk 2morrow m8.

Cheers

Dinger
 
What is the load of the new oven? What size is the cable supplying the cooker at the moment (probably 6mm but just check).

Generally it's the hob which pulls the most current, so the oven may not be much of a load, so you could (depending on the answers to the questions above) reduce the rating of the fuse for the cooker circuit and come from the existing supply with a 2.5mm to supply the hood. It will mean that the cooker isolator will work the oven and hood, but you'll only need the hood on when you're cooking anyway.

If you can then fit a new fused connection unit on the ring because it would probably simplify things.
 
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Hey spark,

Can you take off your " flashing skeleton " :LOL: It's very good but I can't read your post without it distracting me,so if you get the wrong answer to your post it not my fault :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: At the moment I have to use 'Post It' note to cover it up :cry: :LOL: :LOL:
 
i didn't want to say anything, but as you have, i too think it is distracting (flashes too fast)
 
Thanx for the replies guys.

Spark's, Im not sure what the cooker is rated at..been through the paperwork but can only find the rating of the gas burners. At max its got two seperate ovens!

Yes its 6mm cable to the cooker at the moment.

Again im gonna be really cheeky here and ask another question and a favour of you all; could someone furnish me with a very basic diagram for linking the wiring into the existing cooker fused connector. and if possible one for adding another fused connector.

I know roughly what you mean but as Breezer is always saying ' a diagram is worth its weight in gold'

TIA...Dinger
 
Can you help me ?? I have bought a cooker hood and lost the booklet that came with it. I remember reading it when I got the hood and it said something about circulation and leaving a gap above it..
What clearance do you need from ceiling to the hood??
 
Sorry Anyia im not that knowledgeable...best to ask Breezer or Sparks, they know what they're talking bout...

Sorry

Dinger
 
Anyia, it depends what type it is, if its like mine and just recirulates the air (through a carbon filter) then there should be a gap big enough for you to get your hand in to clean the ceiling when you forget to change the filter.

I wasn't joking, about 6 inches minimum, if yours has a vent pipe then it will need to be low enough to get the vent pipe up and out through your chosen route.

vent pipe being like tumble dryers have (sometimes. You know the one most people poke through the window)
 
Oh I see, your eyes ain't what they used to be eh...?
24_shocked.gif
Too fast for you? If you think that's fast you should see me work :LOL: Is this one better?
 

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