kitchen project quick help!

[freshspark]

going to be wiring a new kitchen and need some advice. this is what they have asked for..

9 downlights in the 3 rows with each row switched seperately, on dim switch.

2 more lights in a corner of the room with own dim switch.

a floodlight outside plus about 6 outdoor downlights.

all the kitchen wiring, dishwasher, washing machine, oven, hob, extractor fan plus 6 outlets.

at the moment there are 2 circuits for lighting, upstairs and downstairs. should i start a new circuit for the lights or get feed from downstairs lights? can all the lights be on the same radial circiut?? would i use 2 or 3 core cable??

for the power the cooker will obviously be on its own circuit using 6mm. should i start a new ring circuit for all the power in kitchen? should all the appliances have spurs?

is there anything else i need to know?

please respond asap as i will be starting this kitchen today!!

 

[slippyr4]

I think we'll need the bas treatment on this thread.

 

[freshspark]

"bas treatment"??

 

[Adam_151]

"bas treatment"??

We have a member here called Ban-all-sheds, who usually provides good advice, though can sometimes come across as a bit saracastic, hostile and straight to the point

anyway, my 2p,

6A breaker for the kitchen lights, non RCD side, bring it into both switches, use deep box for the main switch, then three cables out to each row of spots, similar arrangement with other switch, though only one cable out.

32A breaker for 4mm² kitchen radial, RCD side, goes to outlets and SFCUs above countertop, SFCU load side connected to unswitched outlets below counter for appliances by 2.5mm², similar thing for the extractor, also a FCU used to run the circuit for the outdoor lighting.

32A breaker on none rcd side for 10mm² radial to hob (for future expansion), via appropiate switch and outlet plate

Ditto above for oven, except probably use 16A/20A breaker depending on rating of oven (probably no need for a second 10mm² circuit though, maybe 6mm², or even less)

Yet another circuit, none RCD side, 16A breaker, 2.5mm² radial, sockets for fridge and freezer.

 

[breezer]

they are refeing to part P which means that you have to be registerd to do the job, my 2 p worth says either you havent a clue what you you are doing, or you are too niaeve / inexpearianced to do the job

i wish you luck, but next time consider what you are doing before doing it, i dont suppose you have priced the job yet? oh and part p. did i mention that

 

[slippyr4]

hence my comment about bas treatment.

He obviously is lacking some fundamentals, and considering this, and the inherant danger of the kitchen environment, i think it's wholly a bad idea.

especially given the "this is what they have asked for" part - this is obviously someone elses kitchen. It's one thing to risk your *own* life through lack of understanding, but entirely another thing to do it to someone else.

 

[Steve]

"bas treatment"??

We have a member here called Ban-all-sheds, who usually provides good advice, though can sometimes come across as a bit saracastic, hostile and straight to the point

anyway, my 2p,

6A breaker for the kitchen lights, non RCD side, bring it into both switches, use deep box for the main switch, then three cables out to each row of spots, similar arrangement with other switch, though only one cable out.

32A breaker for 4mm² kitchen radial, RCD side, goes to outlets and SFCUs above countertop, SFCU load side connected to unswitched outlets below counter for appliances by 2.5mm², similar thing for the extractor, also a FCU used to run the circuit for the outdoor lighting.

32A breaker on none rcd side for 10mm² radial to hob (for future expansion), via appropiate switch and outlet plate

Ditto above for oven, except probably use 16A/20A breaker depending on rating of oven (probably no need for a second 10mm² circuit though, maybe 6mm², or even less)

Yet another circuit, none RCD side, 16A breaker, 2.5mm² radial, sockets for fridge and freezer.

Time for a second consumer unit given all that i think.

 

[freshspark]

this is what i did..

6mm radial for cooker.

2.5mm ring for all sockets with spurs for dishwasher, hob and washing machine.

2.5mm radial for fridge/freezer.

spur for floodlight.

1.5mm radial for lighting.

aint't got the breakers yet, consumer unit needs to be changed to allow for the extra circuits.

how does that sound??

 

[breezer]

how does that sound??

terrible

not to mention that you appear to have ignored all the previous advice offered to you

 

[securespark]

going to be wiring a new kitchen and need some advice. this is what they have asked for..

They? You're doing a job for a client where you have to ask this level of advice?

would i use 2 or 3 core cable??

can all the lights be on the same radial circiut??

Ditto.

please respond asap as i will be starting this kitchen today

And you waited until now before realising you could not tackle to job without help?

should all the appliances have spurs?

You what?

oven, hob,

for the power the cooker will obviously be on its own circuit using 6mm.

Just the one circuit?

is there anything else i need to know?

Do my responses answer this question?

With apologies to Ban for stealing his "irate poster goes to town" response.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

We have a member here called Ban-all-sheds, who usually provides good advice, though can sometimes come across as a bit saracastic, hostile and straight to the point

**** off you ****.

Freshspark - just what, and how fresh, are your qualifications?

Not trying to be sarky or hostile - my colleagues appear to have taken care of that , but I'm curious to know how you can be in a position of doing this for a living, and presumably be registered with NICEIC/NAPIT/ECA/BSI/ELECSA/UTCAA as this is notifiable work, and yet having to ask for basic info on how to do it on a DIY forum.....

 

[securespark]

That's what I was trying to say.......!

 

[slippyr4]

We have a member here called Ban-all-sheds, who usually provides good advice, though can sometimes come across as a bit saracastic, hostile and straight to the point

I don't think he's hostile - just he's the first person to jump in and point out to a poster that their gross incompetance and total lack of knowledge is an important consideration when evaluating whether they should attempt a given DIY job. The sarcasm makes for enjoyable reading.

 

[Qedelec]

Here here slip, lets hear it for Ban, hip hip ........

 

[securespark]

Think fresh has disappeared...