kitchen sink template?

[stevenmc2]

I've just bought a second hand sink which did not come with template for cutting out hole in worktop. I've since contacted the supplier and this is their reply:

"I have spoken to our technical department and
warehouse and apparently there is no such thing as a template for sinks.
They don't exist. !!!!! This has been confirmed by the factory.

I can only assume that most professional kitchen fitters will know the
sizes needed and therefore do not require a template, so the factories do
not make one. It sounds a bit dubious, I know, but I can only tell you
what I am told. I am sorry that I can not help you with this matter."



Is anyone able to advise? PS the sink is a 'Baumatic
Inset sink BX22.5'

 

[splinter]

Are there any metal lugs/tabs on the underside of the sink,if there is all you have to do is measure between these to give you the size of the cut out
PS I do think the suppliers could of been a bit more helpful and gave you the measurements that you needed

 

[stevenmc2]

there are 4 metal lugs (for attching to worktop yes?)

how do you mean measure between these?

thanks again

 

[Scrit]

Turn the sink upside down and centre on the worktop/square to edges. Draw a line around the outside of the worktop - if it's a dark top then tape wiyh 2in masking tape (this also helpds prevent the jigsaw scratching the surfaces). Measure the inset of the locator lugs from the perimeter (frequently 10mm). Draw a second line inset from the perimeter line by the same amount. Drill a hole inboard of the second (inset) line then cut out with a jigsaw. Make sure you seal the raw edges of worktop with silicone before installing the sink. Do you have a sink clip pack?

Scrit

 

[Kes]

Hi,

You're quite fortunate it's an inset sink, as it's fairly easy to measure the cutout required, and if you do it carefully you will get a better fit than the templates, which seem to err on the gererous side. Does the sink have a drainer? Some templates I've seen for sinks with a drainer include a cutout for the drainer, when (if the underneath of the drainer is higher than the sealing edge) they don't need one.

Just measure, measure, go away for a while, measure again, and cut. It is un-nerving I agree.

Rgds.

 

[stevenmc2]

great advice- thank you!

On an other matter relating to sink- can you advise how I should seal this when fitting? is there special sealer I should buy and any tips?

thanks again

 

[Kes]

Hi,

Sealing sink to worksurface? No secrets, just use a quality silicone sealant (Unibond has a 35-year 'guarantee') appropriate for the job and be generous on the inner side of the seal where it doesn't matter. The acid or whatever it is in silicone sealant can mark laminate worktops so try not to squib it everywhere. I'm not sure whether wipe-it-off-immediately or let-it-dry-and-then-remove-it is better. Wiping does spread the sealant and is messy though. I guess a small bead removed after a few hours when it's half-dry would be the best thing to attempt.

Rgds.

 

[stevenmc2]

final question- the breadth of my sink does not leave a great deal of room for fitting new tap above the sink into the worktop and will involve drilling the hole through worktop and through the back cross support of unit carcase. is this ok? This is mainly because sink hole will need to be flush from the front cross support of carcase if you know what I mean. Any further advice very welcome.

cheers

 

[Kes]

Hi,

I had this problem with the unit in our laundry room. There was a rear support strip flush with the top of the unit and a cross-bar connecting front and rear. Both of these had to go. (These were eye-wateringly expensive units from a kitchen design shop, rubbish really. Ah well, experience isn't cheap). You really have little choice.

As you are using a laminate worktop the now distinctly wobbly unit can be secured to the wall, its fellow units, and the worktop with brackets which will restore stability.

I also had to thin down the front cross-bar, as the sink I used was quite large. I recommend supporting the front bar until the work is finished, chipboard is fragile. When the top's on the bar can be screwed to it.

Rgds.