Kitchen Wiring Appliances with a Grid switch help

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I've done a little reading and wanting to know if I've understood things, before I speak to the electrician and look like a real numpty.

In the kitchen the Fridge/Freezer, Oven, Dishwasher and Combi Micro can all be plugged in.
I believe they should have switches (maybe not all, but if doing some, why not all).
Induction Hob Hardwired

So was thinking a nice matt metal plate (grid?) of labelled switches.

Ok
Is the below diagram correct?
My basic understanding is that the electricity come from the Fuse Box, to the switch and on to the socket then the device?
Or with Grid Switches, do these replace the Plugs and have the devises hardwired into them via a fuse?

Cheers in advance
 
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In the kitchen the Fridge/Freezer, Oven, Dishwasher and Combi Micro can all be plugged in.
I believe they should have switches (maybe not all, but if doing some, why not all).
Up to you. It's not a requirement.

Induction Hob Hardwired
Could not be included. It should already have a 'cooker' switch.
This is a requirement.

Is the below diagram correct?
Sort of.

My basic understanding is that the electricity come from the Fuse Box, to the switch and on to the socket then the device?
Yes, obviously will involve considerable rewiring.

Or with Grid Switches, do these replace the Plugs and have the devises hardwired into them via a fuse?
No, nothing else changes - just a cable from each appliance socket to grid-switches.
 
Thanks for the quick reply.
Just to add more detail, I am renovating, so bare brick walls, pre plasterboarding and new electircs going in.

So I could have 1 large Grid plate with 5 switches

Induction Hob - Separate wire from FuseBox to Grid to Appliance?

FridgeFreezer, Oven, Dish washer, Combi Micro - All plugged into two double sockets neatly hidden in spare cupboard above Oven/Micro Stack. With the electricity coming from FuseBox to Grid Switch to Sockets?

Thanks
 
Induction Hob - Separate wire from FuseBox to Grid to Appliance?
No, the hob will require a (normally) 45A switch suitably placed and not hidden within two metres of it for isolation and use in an emergency.
The grid-switches are just for convenience but, if in a cupboard, why bother.

I presume you will be able to obtain a matching one.
 
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I am renovating, so bare brick walls, pre plasterboarding and new electircs going in.
Ask your electrician to use steel conduit for the cooker circuit, and a CCU without a socket, then you won't need it to be on an RCD.
 
No, the hob will require a (normally) 45A switch suitably placed and not hidden within two metres of it for isolation and use in an emergency.
The grid-switches are just for convenience but, if in a cupboard, why bother.

Ah right, I see, quite obvious.
So if all the sockets for the appliances in the same stack (and fridge next to it) are being placed in the cupboard above the stack, then there is no need for a Grid Switch in the first place. (just seen them in a few managed apartments and magazines)
So the only visible switch is for the Hob
 
I always recommend them to customers. It's not a great deal more work to fit a grid switch, and it's really handy to have.
 
So if all the sockets for the appliances in the same stack (and fridge next to it) are being placed in the cupboard above the stack, then there is no need for a Grid Switch in the first place.
No need for them regardless of where the sockets are. Totally unnecessary and the majority are probably never used.
Their only real use is to accidentally switch off the freezer or fridge and ruin all of the food contained within.

(just seen them in a few managed apartments and magazines)
Many things are shown in such places. They are primarily included for appearances and to increase the size of the profits of the kitchen supplier or property developer.

Examples include beady little halogen downlights in the ceiling, food poisoning cupboards (aka warming drawers), £1000 taps which dispense boiling water onto your fingers, triangular shaped lights under the wall cupboards for extra shadows in the one place you don't want any, sockets on sticks which pop up out of the worksurfaces and so on.
 
Don't forget underslung hobs (yes, really, and $%&*#@ expensive they are too) which mean you cannot use any pans with normal handles.
 
Thanks for the replies.
Do it seems from what I'm reading is that a grid switch isn't absolutely necessary, but is thought to add value to a house (debatable...)

I'm tempted to add one, as i have bare walls, new wiring to put in etc.
 

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