Kitchen wiring

[Contender]

I am fitting a new kitchen with the following appliances;

Oven
Combi microwave oven - requires 15amp supply
Induction hob - rated at 7200w
Fridge/freezer
Washer
Dishwasher
Extractor

I will use the exsisting cooker supply for the new oven.
There is an unused supply from the distribution board that was previously used for an electric shower rated at 50amps.
My question is should I use the 50amp for the hob and can I put both ovens on the same isolator or wire the combi to the ring mains with it's own isolator and 15 amp fuse ?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

First you need to be made aware of the regulations and legal requirements to installing electrical circuits within the kitchen.
You need to either employ an electrician that can certify the work for you or go through building controls notification procedures.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p
It also sounds like the consumer unit has no RCD protection if you are talking about 15A fuses.
Where about in Bradford are you?
What do the Manufactures instruction say regarding the fuse rating for the induction hob?

 

[Contender]

I am well aware of the legal requirements, just want to get the donkey work done.
The supply does have RCD protection. The 15amp reqirement for the combi is from the installation spec on the appliance cable. The hob and oven specs simply refer to wiring requirements for country of installation.

 

[chivers67]

If you're going to use a 50 amp fuse to power a cooker, what size cable have you got, how far and how is it run to the cooker?

No is the answer to running both of it btw.

Also consider what might happen if the cable to the hob or oven are "protected" by a fuse rated at 50 amp but haven't got conductors with a high enough current carrying capacity.

 

[ericmark]

There are two considerations.
1) Max supply permitted to an item
2) min supply permitted to an item
Be it cable or an appliance there will be a max limit and to use a 50A supply for all is clearly not going to do the job.

Much depends on design of the kitchen but the idea of having a distribution unit of some type which can both reduce to power available and provide isolation would likely be the way forward. Be it a standard consumer unit or some other non type tested is really dependent on the electrician doing the work.

There are many devices that will allow splitting and fusing of supplies and most premises with have a collection of devices from consumer units to fuse connection units (FCU) to the 13 amp plug which is of course fused.

The major problem is once the magic 13A (3kW) limit is reached fuse connection units, or consumer units become rather chunky items. So in basic terms you have two methods. A remote splitting into circuits (with then a series of supply cables) or a local splitting into circuits.

So you have to decide where you want to do the splitting. There are flush consumer units. But this

does not look good on the wall. My parents do have a kitchen consumer unit but that was mainly because the house required re-wiring and it was a cheap option allowing a local re-wire of kitchen without doing whole house. Even then the electricians made a mistake and did not realise there was no earth to lights and failed to rewire lights. So now limited to a 28W 2D light rather than the florescent strip lamp originally planned. Pity as whole ceiling was taken down so wiring would have been easy.

As already said the Part P regulations for kitchens mean DIY is an expensive option so likely you will need an electrician but consider where you would put a consumer unit? It's a big lump

where will it fit?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Because the area is a kitchen and these are normally areas of high loads, I would design the kitchen circuits so the you are splitting the loads up so not to induce an overload on any particular circuit.
Do you know the output of the cooker?
I would have hob on separate circuit to cooker as the hob will require a 32A supply and the cooker at least 13A but could be 32A also.
Does the microwave come with a plug fitted?
I would have separate circuit for above worktop appliance and extractor via FCU. 32A RFC or Radial Circuit
Then consider the F/F on seperate circuit with own RCBO protection to help prevent chance of a nuisance trip and food thaw.
and the W/M and D/W on a 32A Radial.

 

[Contender]

Thanks for all that. All the cooking appliances are integrated with no plugs fitted so will need separate supply. I think that with all the appliances that could be running simultaneously I will go for the kitchen consumer unit option and run it all from that. Shouldn't be a problem to hide it. Point taken about the F/F supply, will include that as well.
The W/M and D/W are integrated and have plugs fitted. Is it good practice to have an above worktop switch in case of a problem?

 

[flameport]

I am well aware of the legal requirements, just want to get the donkey work done.

If that means you were intending to find someone to look at the installation afterwards and notify to building control, that simply won't happen.
If you are doing the work yourself, you must notify BEFORE any work is done.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p:diy_electrical_work_and_the_law

 

[Contender]

No, thats not what I mean. A better understanding of what is required and a few opinions on how to do it is always helpful when contracting tradesmen.
I'm quite capable of routing cables etc when I've got the spec.

 

[riveralt]

I am well aware of the legal requirements, just want to get the donkey work done.

If that means you were intending to find someone to look at the installation afterwards and notify to building control, that simply won't happen.
If you are doing the work yourself, you must notify BEFORE any work is done.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p:diy_electrical_work_and_the_law[/QUOTE]

No, thats not what I mean. A better understanding of what is required and a few opinions on how to do it is always helpful when contracting tradesmen.
I'm quite capable of routing cables etc when I've got the spec.

It does sound like you're suffering from a case of hearing what is being said but not listening.

 

[Contender]

Why post if you are not going to answer my question ?
Perhaps you simply don't know............
Not a lot of point in all this then.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Are you aware of the permitted safe zones that cables are allowed to be run?

The W/M and D/W are integrated and have plugs fitted. Is it good practice to have an above worktop switch in case of a problem?

It is good practice to have above worktop isolation, but there are other methods to!
What you should really be doing is contacting an electrician first, then working with them on the installation design. They will be in much better place to offer advice, once they have seen the room first hand and you have discussed your requirements with them.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I am well aware of the legal requirements, just want to get the donkey work done.

That's fine, and you may do that.

But only via finding your electrician first, and agreeing with her exactly what work she is happy for you to do and still be prepared to sign declarations saying she did it all.

Nothing else will work, and if you try to present an electrician with a fait accompli design and installation, even a partial one, you'll find that you've been an ass, not a donkey.

 

[riveralt]

Why post if you are not going to answer my question ?
Perhaps you simply don't know............
Not a lot of point in all this then.

Never mind not listening you're not even hearing now!
Let me spell it out for you...
If you intend to do the job yourself - contact LABC before you start - mentioned several times.
If you intend to use an registered electrician then you need to speak to that electrician before you start - mentioned several times.
As for your proposals those questions have already been answered.
Incidentally your combi/microwave may refer to the Euro spec - which normally tranlates to a 13amp plug here particulaly if its Ikea stuff.