Kitchen worktops - what is the best way to cut the angles?

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I need to cut and join 2 worktops 90 degrees with each other (L - shaped) What is the best way of reducing wasteage. I don't want to use metal or plastic joining strips.
What is the best tool to use. Some say hand saw, some say jigsaw, some say router.
Any guidance is greatfully accepted.
 
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Do a search on the forums, there is loads of advice on here about exactly this kind of subject.

Good kuck.
 
Can anyone help please.

Whilst searching to find the best way to cut worktops, I came accross the above question and reply to a similar question.

Unfortunately, I could not find the "loads of advice" so can anyone help as to the best way to cut a plastic coated chipboard top to length and get a good square and straight edge suitable for 'iron-on' trim.

The material is about 40 mm thick - too thick for my ancient circular saw - and, from the results obtained when cutting out the hole for the sink, my jig saw will not cut it square no matter how slow I go.

How easy it is to hand cut with a sharp, standard wood saw ?
Is it possible (or advisable) to finish a saw cut with a plane ?

Any advice and tips would be most appreciated.
 
The only sensible (IMO) way to cut worktops is with a router.

A local hire centre will hire out both the router and the worktop jig for less than £50 (shop around).

The Jig is an absolute requirement for the 90 degree cuts, although for the end cut any straight edge that the router can run against would be fine.

Most important thing to remember is that the cutters blunt very quickly, so make sure you practice with one and save a sharp bit for the finish cuts, and don't try to cut too deep in one pass (10mm max)

Cheers
Merv
 
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Thanks Merv.

I went ahead with the handsaw anyway !
Did a trial run on the scrap from the sink cut-out then, as I only needed to cut to length, went for it.

The cuts were square on plan view ( followed the line) but not being a super sawer, I had let the saw lean a little. As they were 'plus' at the bottom, I was able to plane them back to true.
Once I had trued them up, using the plane in a circular motion so that I was always cutting down onto the top surface removed the very slight chipping which the saw had made.

Bloody hard work though.

Ugh!
 

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