Knocking out brickwork for new window

[kazgaz]

Hi everyone!

I'm installing a new window in a back bedroom wall where there's no window at present, looking out into garden. There is already a window in the bedroom on the side of the house. I've got the upvc window made which is 110cm wide to match the other existing window. The other original windows meet externally to the barge boards with possibly one row of headers on top. (Looking at my neighbours house!)

My question is would I need a lintel for the internal course of brickwork? I'm guessing there's approx maybe 3 to 4 courses of brickwork internally I have not as yet started the plasterwork removal internally.

Our property does not seem to have a cavity, as in the brickwork pattern has 5 rows of stretchers then a row of headers. Is this correct?

As ever, thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Cheers

Gary.

 

[kazgaz]

Wall where window is going......

 

[Steve]

Rather than try to save the brickwork above, replace it with some framework. You'll need a lintel to support the framework and the roof and ceiling. And some acro's while you do the work. I'm not an expert and wouldn't attempt this myself, but this would seem to be a logical way to do it.

 

[kazgaz]

Thanks for the suggestion Steve. Would a concrete lintel be ok or would this be overkill?

 

[kazgaz]

Picture of inside of bedroom wall where window is going. I'm using the covered up airbrick near the top left of picture as a reference point to the airbrick outside.

 

[gnattycole]

I would say it depends on which way the rafters go for the roof, as to gauging the requirements for a lintel. I installed a window a few years ago in a gable end wall so I had a fair few courses above and it wasn't supporting the wallplate, however, I used a catnic lintel, something similar to a CG50 but if you give them a call, they will advise on which type to use. The one I used was foam filled galvanised steel and is designed to support both leaves of the cavity wall. When I cut the window aperture, I made the two vertical cuts from both sides using a Stihl saw but I left the brickwork in place, only removing the top couple of courses of bricks and the additional overhangs to allow me to put in the lintel into the cavity and up to the top of the aperture. I buttered the lintel with compo and then wedged in place, ensuring level in both planes, filling the top of the overhang under the lintel ensuring the gap was filled completely then left until the cement had set. Once set overnight, I knocked out the brickwork and fitted the window with a minimum gap all around. It never sagged or cracked around the window so I assumed I did a reasonable job. Not sure how a professional builder would have done it but this method worked for me.

 

[kazgaz]

Thanks gnattycole for the comprehensive answer, appreciate it. I don't think I'm going to need a lintel. I've enclosed pictures explaining why I think this may be the case.

Sorry for double posting pics.

 

[Steve]

If you can verify the joists are sat on that rsj then go for it. Use a mirror or camera phone to look that way. Clearly they've used non standard methods here due to the unique shape of the house. The ceiling joists would usually sit on the internal wall so if there was no movement after you took off those bricks then it should be fine.

 

[kazgaz]

Hi Steve.

Yea, I used a mirror and a torch and saw the big RSJ that the roof joists are resting on so I know it's not going to come down on me! The top row of bricks on both internal and external course came loose using my hands. I'm going to put some timber back in where the top of the window will go to just to strengthen things up.

I'm actually looking forward to getting the 9" grinder going to cut out the brickwork now! Just got to sort out a scaffold tower as I don't fancy cutting brickwork off a ladder!

Thanks again.

 

[benben5555]

You will still need a lintel above the window in the outer skin. One of the 'L' shaped ones or a solid wall lintel covering both skins. UPVC windows are not load bearing