Lay parquet floor on hardboard as tiles/planks?

[Lusi83]

I have had to lift some 5 finger parquet floor to allow underfloor access (Gas pipe and pesky sleeper walls with no access holes...) and I guess I might need to lift it again in the future.
To get it up without damaging it we had to start at the edge and lift quite a bit -in the end we just took it all up.
It isn't a massive area - about 1.5 by 2m. I'm currently cleaning the blocks to relay (fun job!) and the floor boards wi ll need cleaning too. Also not walking on it for 24hrs will severely restrict access to the rest of the house - I don't think it is possible.
So I was wondering if I could relay it as planks or tiles on hardboard - like a floating floor. I would make them over lap (kind of like a tongue and groove) and leave an expansion gap/lifting edge under the skirtings. It wouldn't be easy to lift in the future but would be easier than it is currently being (no scraping at least!). I was thinking about making some kind of hatch - I still might. But the floating floor/plank idea would mean I could arrange the blocks and allow to set anywhere - so wouldn't have the walking on problem.
I've attached a couple of images to give an idea of what I mean (blue is hardboard) I guess I could put some kind of laminate floor underlay underneath too -if that would help.
So does it sound possible? Has anyone done anything like it before? What are the problems with doing it?
Thanks!

 

[Tigercubrider]

What about the height increase ? Any removable subfloor needs to be stable enough to not bend

Hotels often have dancefloors that are a modular system but they tend to be quite thick as they are based on plywood.

 

[Lusi83]

Ahhh I keep typing messages and losing them...
The height difference will be ok - as it is the whole floor and I was planning on using 3mm hardboard. If the blocks are firmly glued to the board it will be quite sturdy - the blocks are a cm thick...
I was originally thinking smaller 'tiles' (2 by 2 five finger blocks) but now thinking the bigger the better...
With expansion I might get gaps around the tiles? Unless I can figure out a way of joining the tiles together so they move as one and the only expansion/contraction will happen at the edges..maybe stagger the joints or something?.
I guess I could glue them together some way ....or maybe when I re-varnish it that will act like a glue? - Some of the blocks did come up in chunks stuck together with the varnish on the top..but they can be separated by bending ...so I could I guess break the joints if I needed to lift it . (Really not planning on doing this...but would hate to have to do this again.)
I could just get rid of it and replace it with something else -but it seems a bit of a shame to throw it away. It is hard wearing, easy to maintain etc....

 

[Tigercubrider]

I have herringbone parquet that is stuck down on concrete with bitumen
It is about 1"thick

But I have laid a stage floor using large sheets of ply backed wood veneer flooring , at a guess it was 800x1000 and was tongue and grove. We would cover an area about 40 feet by 40 feet
The word was laid in a brick type pattern so no row was in line exactly with another

I guess that you could do something with a biscuit cutter to create panels with a base and t&g but it's a lot of work

 

[Lusi83]

Definitely not going down making my own tongue and groove path -think it would be easier to scrape the blocks and re-lay
Shame it isn't a perfectly square empty room with no obstructions and I could just drop one sheet in and cover the edges with extra wide skirting....
I'll think about it a bit more and if I do try and fit onto a board report back how it goes ... and update if I do run into future problems...
It might be worth just trying seeing how it goes ...seeing as I am going to have re-lay it anyway and onto the floor or a board won't be that much different
then if it turns into a disaster then I'll just have to replace it with something else and put it down to experience/ learning from my mistakes!

 

[Doggit]

You shouldn't need to wait 24 hours if you relay the fingers, most adhesives will set in a few hours, and with that size room, you can always put down a scaffold board or something if you're really worried.

If you try and glue it to boards, then it'll just bounce and you'll end up scrapping it, so I really wouldn't bother. And I know you don't want to throw it away, but it's normally sanded after it's laid to get and even flat level, so with the cost of hiring a sander, you may find it better to relay the floor with engineered wood on top of fibre board; that's if you can handle the height increase of another centimetre.