I am about to get my common lead water supply replaced and have two questions if anyone can help. the first is about disconnecting my supply from the common main which runs along all the street can I cut my leg off near the common supply pipe and put a stop end on or do i have to cut my T out of the common pipe and put a straight connector back in its place, also can anyone recommend a type of fitting for underground use. and also what ducting should I use at the house end there's a you tube video of someone using 110mm drain pipe for the job and it passing the inspection, is this the way to go
Lead pipe replacement
- Thread starter IrwinMc
- Start date
Is this pipe on your property? If not, then you can't do anything to it. You can only work on water pipes if they are on your side of the Water Company's street isolator (if there is one). And even then, you can't connect to their communication pipe, they have to do it.
Or have I misunderstood you?
Or have I misunderstood you?
You can connect a stop end on an unused entry to a "T" piece but in that case the remaining length should be at a minimum so that a dead leg is not created.
It seems you are proposing to do work covered by the Water Regulations with very little knowledge of what is required!
Most people would do the labouring digging trenches and leave the pipework to a plumber with water regulations.
Tony
It seems you are proposing to do work covered by the Water Regulations with very little knowledge of what is required!
Most people would do the labouring digging trenches and leave the pipework to a plumber with water regulations.
Tony
Thanks for the reply, yes I'm planning to replace the lead pipe to my property and stop the old lead supply pipe off as close to the common supply as possible using a plasson stop end with the lead conversion inserts and was just wondering if this was the correct procedure and best method, sorry if my post was a bit confusing
Yes it's a shared or common supply, one branch from the water main supply's four houses via a long run of lead pipe with a branch for each house so I'm in the process of getting my own supply pipe installed, via the lead pipe replacement scheme but the utility company will only bring a supply to my border once all the work at my end is done up to the correct standard. The guidelines they send tell's you how deep to dig the trench ect, but doesnt go into too much detail on some of the more important parts like dead legs this leaflet makes it look like it's ok to just stop the pipe at the
'T' but some other sites say the 'T' must be replaced with a straight section
http://www.unitedutilities.com/documents/1345_Disconnecting_20pipes.pdf
'T' but some other sites say the 'T' must be replaced with a straight section
http://www.unitedutilities.com/documents/1345_Disconnecting_20pipes.pdf
So you're capping a shared supply branch? Will it be live? 
You can do it live, but it's much easier if you can isolate the shared incoming main. If you make the branch at your tee as short as possible to cap it, it will comply. The branch is to be disconnected at it's source. As far as I'm aware, there's no regulation stating you need to remove the tee altogether, although if you can achieve this by using one coupler, then it's another option. I find philmac universal repair couplers are the best for this, sold by pipestock.com
Be extremely careful when exposing the shared main, if you damage, flatten or score the lead, you could find your fittings won't seal.
Underground fittings should be buried in the trench, not in a duct, and will be designed for this purpose (plasson, philmac etc or DZR metallic).
4" soil pipe is suitable for ducting entering the property, I usually use it. Insulate the pipe inside it, and fit soil pipe reducers down to about 20mm bigger than your mdpe size. Seal each end of the duct with decorator's caulk type sealant (silicone isn't suitable for mdpe).
There's additional guidance here:-
http://www.unitedutilities.com/documents/1344_How_20to_20lay_20new_20pipe.pdf
You can do it live, but it's much easier if you can isolate the shared incoming main. If you make the branch at your tee as short as possible to cap it, it will comply. The branch is to be disconnected at it's source. As far as I'm aware, there's no regulation stating you need to remove the tee altogether, although if you can achieve this by using one coupler, then it's another option. I find philmac universal repair couplers are the best for this, sold by pipestock.comBe extremely careful when exposing the shared main, if you damage, flatten or score the lead, you could find your fittings won't seal.
Underground fittings should be buried in the trench, not in a duct, and will be designed for this purpose (plasson, philmac etc or DZR metallic).
4" soil pipe is suitable for ducting entering the property, I usually use it. Insulate the pipe inside it, and fit soil pipe reducers down to about 20mm bigger than your mdpe size. Seal each end of the duct with decorator's caulk type sealant (silicone isn't suitable for mdpe).
There's additional guidance here:-
http://www.unitedutilities.com/documents/1344_How_20to_20lay_20new_20pipe.pdf
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