Leaking filling loop

[smiley2204]

All,

I appreciate any wisdom people can give on this, as i don't want to turn a simple job into a significant job!

The filling loop has started to leak at the point the braid meets the dog ears (as indicated in the pictures attached). With the valves at either end shut, it still drips and fills a 5L bucket over a 10 hour period. I believe this indicates that one of the valves has failed and i need to replace the entire filling loop and valves (with something like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-r24-filling-loop-with-non-return-valve/83905), rather than just unscrewing the dog ears and replacing the braided loop?

Can anyone advise?

And if i have to replace the loop and valves, I am assuming i have to drain down the entire heating system (but not the unvented hot water cylinder) and replace the inhibitor when i refill the system?

Thanks in advance

 

[Exedon]

You may get away with just changing the loop
I would personally change the lot.
Turn of mains to do that side heating side just drain enough to drop pressure to zero .
Normally not much more than a bucket full. Towels to catch odd drips and change valve.
Probably useful to add inhibitor before re pressurising.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Can anyone advise?

And if i have to replace the loop and valves, I am assuming i have to drain down the entire heating system (but not the unvented hot water cylinder) and replace the inhibitor when i refill the system?

You need to work out which valve is leaking, then replace it. If you remove the filling loop, it will become obvious, which valve is leaking. A clue might be, if your pressure in the system, holds up OK - then it is more likely the cold water supply valve which is leaking.

You can swap the cold water valve, by simply turning the main stop tap off, and turning cold taps on, to drain the pipework.

If it's the heating system valve, just release the pressure, no need to drain down completely, and fit a replacement valve.