leaking isolation valve

[MattWills]

Got a 22mm isolation valve on the return pipe just under the boiler, and it's weeping from the (flat-head) screw. I know these type of valves do this and should be replaced, but I'm just wondering if anyone has had any luck with temporary fixes in this situation. Don't want to have to drain down the system at the moment - might need to do this in 6 months or so when some work is to be done on the system. Wondered if a dab of LSX might do in the interim - assuming the valve doesn't need to be used in the meantime.

Any opinions/alternatives?
Thanks

 

[Softus]

LSX on the outside won't achieve anything.

If the leak is very slow then it might stop on its own (if you don't disturb it).

 

[MattWills]

Thanks Softus. I'll monitor it over the next few days (and no fiddling - promise!).

Failing that though, any alternatives that might see me through a few months before the system really does need to be drained down? Access to the screw head isn't really an issue 'til then. Some sort of tape perhaps? It's a slow weep, but irritating nonetheless.

 

[Softus]

There's nothing you can except replace the valve, or hope that it 'heals' up in the meantime.

I don't really know why you can't drain to a point just below the valve and whip in a new one.

 

[MattWills]

No good reason, other than trying to put off that job until it definitely has to be done for other work to be carried out in the spring. Thanks for clarifying the situation with the valve though.

 

[Softus]

A stitch in time saves nine.

If the water that's leaking out contains a chemical corrosion inhibitor, then putting it off will result in the dose being diluted. Left for long enough you'd lose protection and rads will start to rust.

If your system isn't already protected, then are you aware of what is likely to happen?

 

[JPC]

i have found that sometimes turning the "screw" 180 d stops the leak

 

[BigGBo]

i have found that sometimes turning the "screw" 180 d stops the leak

Or makes it a thousand times worse!

 

[Soggy_weetabix]

Maybe some internal leak sealer will help until its replaced.

Dave

 

[roguetrader]

if you want a real bodge up, drain a bit of water out, give it some heat and run a bit of solder in it. only a very temporary fix to keep it running till the new vave arrives.

 

[Softus]

So, even though it would be incredibly difficult to get solder into the gland of a brand new ball-o-fix valve, you reckon that you've succeeded in doing it with a cruddy old one that's had water and Fernox and grunge suppurating forth?

I very much doubt it.

 

[mickyg]

Wondered if a dab of LSX might do

Have you considered a career with British Gas

 

[roguetrader]

yep, only ever once though, was a worcester i think. not pretty but it worked as a stop gap.

 

[Gas2Air]

if you want a real bodge up, drain a bit of water out, give it some heat and run a bit of solder in it. only a very temporary fix to keep it running till the new vave arrives.

FFS.

 

[Gas2Air]

There's nothing you can except replace the valve, or hope that it 'heals' up in the meantime.

I don't really know why you can't drain to a point just below the valve and whip in a new one.

Irks me when the new valves come closed and i carefully turn them on before fitting, thinking i've knacked that one too.