leaking roof

seema15 · 11 Jul 2007

can i put a question here for help in my roofing problem? i am new so do not know where to put i a question for help.

seema15 · 11 Jul 2007

i think i can put my help question here.

i have a property which had extension built next to the kitchen and the garage converted to a study. this was done jointly with the neighboring property , there being a single wall between them by some previous owner.
the neighboring property is at a higher level.

the problem now is that when it rains heavily or the gutter between the two roofs has debris in it or recently hailstones, water backtracks under the tiles and the ceiling leaks.

this happens because the gulley or gutter between the properties is extremely shallow and practically non existent on our side. The other property has a higher side wall, as they are on higher ground level so no problem to them. Also their roof has a more steeper inclination than ours.

although there is lead in the gutter and felt under the tiles it is unable to stop the water leaking.

I am told by roofing people that if i have the roof raised by increasing the sidewall height it will cause problem for the other roof as the distance will become very less between the edges of the tiles of the two roofs

i don't know what to do as i do not want to be flooded every time it rains heavily.

masona · 11 Jul 2007

I think I got the picture, can you do a photo?

seema15 · 11 Jul 2007

will try to ake a pcture and post it. thanks.

seema15 · 14 Jul 2007

masona · 14 Jul 2007

Do you know roughly the angle of your pitch roof?

Where about in Essex are you?

seema15 · 14 Jul 2007

The inclination on our side is between 25-27 degrees. My property is on the left if you are looking at the front of house pictures. And the neighbouring side has approx 35 degrees. The tiles that we have at the minute are the old hand made simple tiles and Im told these will just about do (or are just a little bit less) for the angle of the pitch that we have. I am near Romford.

noseall · 14 Jul 2007

you need to have 35 degrees of fall for plain tiles.

the maximum gauge for plain tiles is 100mm.

that valley is being overwhelmed.

the valley needs widening and the centre shifted onto your side so that you too end up with a 100mm upstand.

the gutter downpipe lying in the valley will not help either.

some tiles need squaring up and some need replacing.

kevnurse · 15 Jul 2007

Firstly, you should not have a down pipe running along that gutter. I think I'm right in guessing that the original downpipes for the 2 property's main roofs have been re-routed over the extension roofs and into that gutter. From the photos, there is not a downpipe at the back. Consequently, all of the rainfall onto both extensions has to try to flow past the downpipe.

I suggest you attack this from 3 directions, with co-operation from the neighbour:

1. Re-route the 2 main roof downpipes so that they run diagonally over the extension roofs straight to the front and terminate independently into the hopper. The existing arrangement cannot remain.

2. Unless there is a significant opposing fall towards the front elevation, open up the masonry at the rear and fit a downpipe to soakaway.

2. This will be expensive, but I believe you have no choice but to protect your house: Using lead flashing, re-line the gutter so that the neigbour's edge of the flashing goes right up under his bottom tiles and your side of the flashing passes over the top of your bottom tiles and tucks underneath the 2nd row of tiles. This effectively deepens and widens the gutter. IMHO thats the only way you will be able to stop water getting under your bottom tiles. Its important that the neighbour's edge is as high as possible so that the water cannot penetrate under the lining from his side.

I'm not a roofer, but thats what I would do, with the neighbour's agreement (and I guess I would have to pay for it all) unless someone else has a better idea......

masona · 16 Jul 2007

have to agree, it need redoing, just has another thought, maybe temporary for now or it may solve the problem by putting a rafter gutter brackets on your neighbour roof rafters as the roof is higher and run a rain gutter along there so you will both have your own rain gutter

seema15 · 16 Jul 2007

The problem is that becase my neighbours have no problem with their roof so they dont want anything disturbed on their side and in as much as cost is concerned , they will probably not want to contribute either.

The down pipes in the gutter have only been put in because my neighbours wife did not want guttering and pipes on the front of the house as it looks ugly. It was a life saver as I would have been flooded when the hail stones fell recently. that all cost was absorbed by me.

Now i have to have a unilateral solution.

If I have the side wall raised and go back one row of tiles to create space, line my side of the wall with lead and to have a join in the base of the gutter rather than continue on to the neighbouring roof , is that going to be problem solver? The lead will go to about 3 rows under the tiles on my side to prevent water travelling up.

Also i am told that there are somewhat similar tiles available which can take a lower degree of pitch to prevent capillary action of water, so i can change that too if it helps.

this is going to be a costly project for me but have to do it in the best possible way.

My neighbour understands that any future problems that they encounter will be theirs to solve on their own.

I hope somebody will fine tune this problem for me with emphasis on unilateral action.

seema 15

seema15 · 16 Jul 2007

the drain pipes have been put in only 3ish weks ago as the water from the main roofs was left to disperse on the extension roofs. There is however a space in the gutter as the juctional drain does not rest in the gutter itself to let water run from the extension roofs directly into the hopper.

Is felt an answer to the problem or not? This was suggested by one of the roofing people instead of lead. I am told that some felt is guaranteed for 20 years.

Seema15

masona · 16 Jul 2007

seema15 said:
The problem is that becase my neighbours have no problem with their roof so they dont want anything disturbed on their side and in as much as cost is concerned , they will probably not want to contribute either.

If this is the case then, without disturbing their roof, the only way I can think off is to removed approximately 3 row of tiles and run another wide lead flashing and find a plumber/roofer to lead burn the joint but if the rain level raised the timber battens will get wet, not a good idea. To be honest I think your neighbour will have no choice and have got to give you permission to work on their roof, try & get free advice from your local CAB

kevnurse · 17 Jul 2007

seema15 said:
If I have the side wall raised and go back one row of tiles to create space, line my side of the wall with lead and to have a join in the base of the gutter rather than continue on to the neighbouring roof , is that going to be problem solver? The lead will go to about 3 rows under the tiles on my side to prevent water travelling up.

That should work. However, the lead joint along the base of the gutter will need to be waterproof, obviously. That join will be tested every time it rains. You will never know about any slight leak until the day your wall crumbles away underneath. So, I still suggest you take the neighbour's edge up under his eaves. Going up 3 rows on you side seems excessive to me, but you know the situation better than me.

I don't think the gap underneath the downpipes is enough. However, when the lead flashing is fitted those pipes will have to be temporarily dis-assmbled. You might consider refitting them slightly higher if possible.

Best of luck

masona · 17 Jul 2007

masona said:
If this is the case then, without disturbing their roof, the only way I can think off is to removed approximately 3 row of tiles and run another wide lead flashing and find a plumber/roofer to lead burn the joint but if the rain level raised the timber battens will get wet, not a good idea. To be honest I think your neighbour will have no choice and have got to give you permission to work on their roof, try & get free advice from your local CAB

I've made a slight error

The timber batten won't get wet because the first 2 row of tiles won't be there

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leaking roof

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