Leaking Tap Pipework - What Do I Need To Replace

[Skavenger]

Hi;

I have discovered a leak under the sink, on investigation it looks like there has been a slow leak in one of the tap connections for a while (its badly rusted) but must have just got work with additional use.

I remember the plumber having a lot of trouble fitting these connectors as they are very tricky so I am not looking forward to replacing them?

What kind of flexi pipes do i need? where can i get them from? and is there an easy way to fit them - i.e. do i need any special tools?

I hope the Tap itself is OK as it was about £120!!

I'll tweak the connector where the flexible pipe meets the copper pipe but I don't think that is the problem.

The kitchen was fitted several years ago but as we have been working / living away, has only been used for a couple of months a year.

Pics:

Swan Neck Tap

• Skavenger
• 30 Jan 2014
• 1

Tap Fittings

• Skavenger
• 30 Jan 2014
• 1

 

[HERTS P&D]

They are either 10 or 12mm:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_t...exible+tap+connectors+10mm&_sacat=0&_from=R40

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-...DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item2c7bcba05d

Andy

 

[Blagard]

You have to take the old ones off first because the thread into the tap body may not always be the same. Some are even factory fitted and don't come off!

Also the connections to the copper vary although it looks like yours are 15mm compression

Below are links to similar to show you at least two variations

10mm threads to a tap body
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-tails-10mm-x-15mm-x-300mm-pack-of-2/27936?

12mm threads to a tap body
http://www.screwfix.com/p/wras-hose-m12-15mm-x-300mm-x-8mm-pk2/57875

Edit: Drat - Same as above post ! At least the OP has two places for shopping.

 

[longdogs]

That looks like a Franke tap so hopefully should be ok. I would imagine the reason the plumber had trouble fitting it originally is because the sink is sited on top of two separate units instead of one double unit, resulting in part of the carcass being cut away. re-fitting shouldn't be so bad but might be easier to remove the tap first before replacing the flexis. When the new flexis are on you can normally push each flexi through the hole one at a time.

 

[Skavenger]

That looks like a Franke tap so hopefully should be ok. I would imagine the reason the plumber had trouble fitting it originally is because the sink is sited on top of two separate units instead of one double unit, resulting in part of the carcass being cut away. re-fitting shouldn't be so bad but might be easier to remove the tap first before replacing the flexis. When the new flexis are on you can normally push each flexi through the hole one at a time.

He didn't have trouble fitting the tap, he had trouble tightening up the flexi connector at the tap end. The connections are up inside the base of the tap and he couldn't tighten them up sufficiently - they kept leaking

 

[HERTS P&D]

The flexible tap connectors are fitted to the tap BEFORE the tap is fitted to the sink.

Andy

 

[Skavenger]

Thanks for the links, thats just what I am after.

If I wanted to fit an isolator between the copper pipe and the flexi coupling could I fit one of these (The correct size ones of course) and remove the nut from one end to fit on the Flex pipe?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-isolating-valve-pack-of-2/65251#

Some of these are advertised as "Full Bore" - what's the difference?

 

[Skavenger]

Just found this link which kind of answers my question:

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=219657

Is ballofix a particular type an as asked above what's the difference with isolators advertised as full bore?

Is there a special tool needed to do up the tap end of the flexi pipes seems too small to get a spanner in the tap block!!!

 

[HERTS P&D]

Full bore has a bigger hole in the centre, if you have a hot water cylinder then fit full bore.

1. Turn off water mains (main stopcock)
2. Open cold tap in bath and wait until water stops running
3. Open hot tap in bath to let the rest of the water out.
4. Open any other taps downstairs and wait for all water to stop.
5. Remove flexible tap connectors from pipework and remove tap.
6. Fit new tails to tap and fit tap to sink
7. Fit isolation valves to pipe work and fit tails to isolation valves.
8. Turn isolation vales to the off position and turn on water main.
9 Fit system remove air check for leaks
10. Turn on isolation valves (check tap is not leaking)
11. Job done, Pat on the back from the boss!

This is how I do a tap change when there are no isolation valves under the sink on a gravity system. I don't touch the gate valves in air-in cupboard as they normally leak or get stuck.

If you have a combi or unvented then just turn off the mains and drain down

Andy

 

[HERTS P&D]

This is the box spanner you will need.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROTHENBER...DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item338a5bac25

Andy

 

[Skavenger]

Full bore has a bigger hole in the centre, if you have a hot water cylinder then fit full bore.

1. Turn off water mains (main stopcock)
2. Open cold tap in bath and wait until water stops running
3. Open hot tap in bath to let the rest of the water out.
4. Open any other taps downstairs and wait for all water to stop.
5. Remove flexible tap connectors from pipework and remove tap.
6. Fit new tails to tap and fit tap to sink
7. Fit isolation valves to pipe work and fit tails to isolation valves.
8. Turn isolation vales to the off position and turn on water main.
9 Fit system remove air check for leaks
10. Turn on isolation valves (check tap is not leaking)
11. Job done, Pat on the back from the boss!

This is how I do a tap change when there are no isolation valves under the sink on a gravity system. I don't touch the gate valves in air-in cupboard as they normally leak or get stuck.

If you have a combi or unvented then just turn off the mains and drain down

Andy

Many thanks - your a star

 

[Skavenger]

This is the box spanner you will need.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROTHENBER...DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item338a5bac25

Andy

To undo the mono block right??

I had a look on Google to find a tool for doing up the Tap end of the Flexi couplings as for the shorter one it is impossible to reach with a spanner however, most people suggest that hand tight will suffice otherwise you risk damaging the 'O' Ring on the Flexi Coupling?

 

[Charnwood]

Is ballofix a particular type

The word ballofix is used as a generic term for isolating/service valves - like hoover for vacuum cleaners.
Ballofix (upper case 'B') is a brand name of Pegler Yorkshire. Pegler Yorkshire Ballofix valves are not full bore.

Full bore valves will give a better flow rate.

Untitled

• Charnwood
• 31 Jan 2014
• 1

 

[Skavenger]

Is ballofix a particular type

The word ballofix is used as a generic term for isolating/service valves - like hoover for vacuum cleaners.
Ballofix (upper case 'B') is a brand name of Pegler Yorkshire. Pegler Yorkshire Ballofix valves are not full bore.

Full bore valves will give a better flow rate.

Untitled

• Charnwood
• 31 Jan 2014
• 1

Might have to shorten the copper pipe that the Flexi connects to to get a smoother curve?

 

[Skavenger]

Aha;

Just emptied out the sink cupboard and found that the plumber had already fitted Isolators on both the hot and the cold. He has fitted them to the origanal supply pipes and then fitted a length of copper pipe to the Flexis so I don't need to fit Isolators.

The leak does not appear to be constant and may only get worse when the tap is used? I'll replace the Flexi coupling but if that doesn't do the trick could the tap itself be at fault?