Leaky Compression Joints and Basin Wrenches

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Just completed my first re-piping task in the cloakroom (sink and toilet). I was a bit nervous of my soldered joints as I'd never done it before, but none of them caused any problem. The compression joints were more prone to dribbles until tightened again. Is it just a case of getting used to tightening to the correct pressure, or is it worth adding a bit of PTFE tape or putty to the joints?

I bought some flexible hoses to connect up the taps and what a nightmare on such a small sink! I tried a basin wrench, wrong size. I tried an adjustable wrench and couldn't get it on. I tried no end of spanners and still couldn't get a grip. A similar post in the tools section recommends a box spanner. Is 27mm/32mm the right size to attach one end of a flexible hose to a tap?
 
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>PTFE tape or putty to the joints?

jointing compound - bodgers use miles of ptfe tape.
thats what the olives for.

box spanner is for the nut holding the tap to basin
basin wrench is for the pipe connector.
 
hi-spec plumbing heating said:
jointing compound
This type of thing - Loctite Pipe Sealant ?

hi-spec plumbing heating said:
basin wrench is for the pipe connector.
So I need to find a slimmer adjustable wrench or a different sized fixed wrench. I have a fixed wrench as below, but have no idea what sized nuts it fits if not the standard flexible pipe nuts :confused:

p1095269_l.jpg
 
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If you MUST use flexis put them on BEFORE you put basin up

They also only need nipped up with a spanner.

Hindsight is a wonderful thing !!!!
 
A small amount of jointing compound around the olive and a little on the thread is essential. Otherwise the friction can be so high the joint may not be sufficiently tight. The screeching of bare metal that often accompanies dry fitting does not seem to concern some plumbers though :eek:

Even if the joint doesn't appear to leak at the time when compound is not used have a look a year or two later - its liklely to be covered in scale.
 
Gasguru said:
A small amount of jointing compound around the olive and a little on the thread is essential. Otherwise the friction can be so high the joint may not be sufficiently tight. The screeching of bare metal that often accompanies dry fitting does not seem to concern some plumbers though :eek:

Even if the joint doesn't appear to leak at the time when compound is not used have a look a year or two later - its liklely to be covered in scale.

You should refer to MI,s regarding compression fittings and not resort to diy tactics.
 
Just good engineering practice....try building race engines with no lubricant on threads...then see what happens. :)

It just takes a little longer - the real reason many plumbers don't bother.
 
Is that the MI's on the can of Plumbers Mait ;)
 
What manufacturers instructions??
Most compression fittings I come across are foreign imports!!

I recently tested an existing LPG gas installation that had been installed using "Prestex" fittings !
There was a 5mb drop which i was unable to trace with LDF (no smell of gas).
I resolved the problem by dismantling the fittings and applied a smear of Boss blue to the inserted pipe ends!!
100% gas tight!!
It is not only the fittings but also the pipe that can have minute scratches and cause problems!!
I suspect it is laziness that stops installers using a smear of paste to give a "Belt and Braces" job!!
 
Terrywookfit said:
I suspect it is laziness that stops installers using a smear of paste to give a "Belt and Braces" job!!

Exactly :LOL: :LOL:

And its even more important these days with poor quality pipe/fittings even from the top makes.
 
I agree with Gasguru. Jointing compound or PTFE is essential for a reliable joint. Cant remember how many leaks I've been to on compression joints and found that the original installer has not done so(water and gas).
 
And in a similar vain I always use this on the pump to pump valve threads.

Considerably reduces the friction and they will easily undo when the time comes.
 

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