LED coving wiring assistance - using lighting circuit and switch if possible.

[Tog-]

I have on a number of occasions benefitted from the help given in these forums, but never had the need to actually post any questions. Unfortunately I find myself lacking in knowledge and confidence that what I am trying to achieve is even possible.

It is hopefully very straight forward and I am just complicating it by over thinking.

I wish to install LED tape/strips on specific led coving around the room. I would rather not have a power cable running down the wall to a socket so thought I could take the power through the ceiling and wire into the lighting circuit of the main light in the room.

I assume this is possible with the use of an Led driver? If that is the case they would then switch on and off with the light switch that controls the main light (assuming it is wired correctly with the switched line).

If what I have said so far is correct, then it moves me on to my next question. Ideally I would like to change the 1 gang light switch to a 2 gang and control the LEDs and main light separately. The conduit feeding the light switch is very small and there is no way I could feed a second cable down it. Is it permitted to utilise an alternative cable with more cores to solve this issue, or do I need to chase the wall out, for a larger conduit and run a second resin and earth?

Apologies for rambling and thank you to anyone who spends any time assisting me with this.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

If there is just a twin and earth down to the switch you might be able to replace it with a triple and earth thereby giving you the extra switched live for the leds.. if possible i would fit the led driver in the coving if there is enough room as if it goes phut and needs replacing its easier than if its hidden under the floor

 

[securespark]

On the other hand, it may be less disruptive to the decor to mount it under the floor. Of course, it depends how easy it is to access the driver in each location.

 

[SUNRAY]

Is there a convenient accesible space in the room above?
Such as airing cupboard, under bath etc.

 

[Tog-]

Sorry I should have said that it's an upstairs room so I was planning on putting the led driver in the loft.

So triple and earth is acceptable way of wiring in a 2 gang switch?

Thank you for your replies so far, it does sound like I was over thinking it.

 

[SUNRAY]

Sorry I should have said that it's an upstairs room so I was planning on putting the led driver in the loft.

So triple and earth is acceptable way of wiring in a 2 gang switch?

Thank you for your replies so far, it does sound like I was over thinking it.

Not only acceptable but very very common.

 

[Tog-]

Excellent, thank you very much indeed and just to confirm wiring a driver into the lighting circuit is standard practice too?

Sorry I'm just a little surprised that what I was planning on doing is possible, thought it was going to be a massive headache.

 

[ericmark]

My problem and I will assume also yours, it to switch on the lights when required, and switch them off when not required, we tend to walk into a room and flick the light switch, and same walking out. So any lights supplied from another source very quickly end up not used, as we don't want to walk around the room switching them on.

So I have used smart devices, this means I can with easy turn them on and off, so they are actually used. There are a host of methods, from kinetic switches, to voice commands, in the main as long as the voice commands systems will work with the devices, they say "Google Assistant compatible" on the box then the google home app with work them. So you get something like this on your phone, so I in this case with one tap can turn on all on or off in a room, or hold and I get so I can select which lamps I want. I actually use voice control, but that needs the Nest mini's to work that.

If using smart devices then does not matter where the power comes from.

 

[Tog-]

Yeah, that's a big reason why I wanted them wired to the light switch so that is natural to turn them on and off.
The other reason was for the installation to be as "clean" as possible, no wires coming from the coving to a power socket or anything.

I haven't selected the actual LEDs or driver to be used yet, so if available and I could get a network connectable set up, that would then open up the smart aspect too.

Thank you for your input, much appreciated.

 

[SUNRAY]

If it is a round conduit as opposed to an oval it may very well be aesier to use a 4 core flex rather than tripple and earth.
Example: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA1F4slash1.html
Depending on the existing ceiling fitting and how much space there is for an additional joint you may very well require a junction box.

 

[crystal ball]

Kinetic Switch

Kinetic self-powered switches use micro-energy acquisition technology. It converts your kinetic energy to electric energy when youpush the button. No need to use batteries and no need to connect to mains power. With built-in RF433 modules this creates a remote control from the receiver.These...

www.toolstation.com

 

[SUNRAY]

Kinetic Switch

Kinetic self-powered switches use micro-energy acquisition technology. It converts your kinetic energy to electric energy when youpush the button. No need to use batteries and no need to connect to mains power. With built-in RF433 modules this creates a remote control from the receiver.These...

www.toolstation.com

Hmmm let's see...
In the loft pull out one cable and replace with another, say £5. Change the switch to a 2 gang, say £3. If required add a junction box

Alternatively double kinetic switch £25, two relay modules £40, enclosure for the relay modules, making arrangements to mount the new switch and decorate if required.

Hmm over £50 to achieve nothing and add unreliability... seems to be a really good alternative

 

[crystal ball]

No need for a double kinetic, leave existing switch, Kinetic can be sited anywhere, one relay, switch screws directly onto wall, no decorating needed, talk about over egging the pudding, unreliability yet to be proven, I fitted a Quinetic fob & relay system to an extraction unit in a joiners shop years ago, still going strong after many daily operations

 

[SUNRAY]

No need for a double kinetic, leave existing switch, Kinetic can be sited anywhere, one relay, switch screws directly onto wall, no decorating needed, talk about over egging the pudding, unreliability yet to be proven, I fitted a Quinetic fob & relay system to an extraction unit in a joiners shop years ago, still going strong after many daily operations

I'm not over egging anything, I just don't understand this insistance from you that electronic/radio equipment is better than the simplest solution.
You may not have encountered it but there are many cases where kinetic and other radio devices simply will not work and yes I have personal experience of ripping out and providing a system that does work...
On a housing development of 600 homes where only Quinetic switches were installed and advertised as a selling point. Developers have had to provide proper wiring.

Unreliability has certainly been proven.

Did you not read post #1?
The preference is for a 2G switch and adding another that doesn't match beside it will look really pretty and still add £50 for no apparent gain.

 

[crystal ball]

Just suggesting alternatives, where was this housing development. I was adding some switching to my hallway and was going to remove the existing switches and swap for kinetics involving some wiring alterations, Mrs CB made a couple of suggestions from left field and the end result is a big improvement, an open mind is required