If you only have 8 of the down lights installed you probably only have a 40 w load (assuming the lights are 5 w each).
Your dimmer clearly shows a minimum load requirement of 60 w.
I’ve installed 16 of the 8 watt Enlite LED downlights.
@winston1 you need to read the question better, however you still may have a point, my electronic switches say minimum bulb wattage is 5 watt, and having 5 x 2.5 watt G9 bulbs did not work, it seems not down to total wattage but wattage of the bulb, which does not seem to make sense.
I struggled to get it to work, tried different makes, and the one bulb in the chart published by the switch manufacturer. Swapping one bulb for halogen worked, but is was in the end my wife who got some bulbs from the internet.
The five bulbs did not last a day before one failed, so 4 spares ordered, once they arrived I looked at the failed bulb and decided to look inside, the smoothing capacitor in the larger bulb was nearly as big as the whole smaller bulb, also found dry joint cured and returned to service. But there is nothing on the specification of the bulb to show which have smoothing capacitors and which don't.
With the GU10 bulbs I had enough around the house to swap around until flicker stopped, I looked inside a failed GU10 out of interest, and it was far more complex
OK was a colour changing smart bulb, but you can see the capacitor and one assumes step down transformer, what I think is the problem is the components in the bulbs can have a miss match with the components in the switch, and unless switch and bulb are made by same manufacturer one can't guarantee they will not upset each other.
So looking at the
spec sheet is says
MD9042 400W/Va 2 Way Resistive/Inductive Dimmer Module
which does seem to show this switch is NOT designed for LED. It clearly says:-
"Load Type Resistive / Inductive
Module Type Leading Edge Technology (MD9022 & MD9042)"
Unlike my electronic switch where it listed the bulbs found to work, many were LED.
