LED strip power

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If I have 8m of 12 volt 10W per m LED strip, a 100w LED driver should be able to handle that as its 80w.

Im I correct in thinking that the actual current drawn by the circuits supply side would be 80w /230 = 0.34A
The current on the load side would be 80w / 12v =6.6A so any interlinking cable would need to be able to carry at least 6.6A
 
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Thats more or less right, but the loading on the supply side will be slightly more, the power supply will not be 100% efficient so will pull in slightly more than 80w, with some of it lost as heat. However, if your mains voltage is higher than 230v the current may be a little less than calculated, being a switch mode device it'll draw what current on the input it needs to maintain its power output
 
a 100w LED driver should be able to handle that as its 80w
Beware the description "LED Driver" An LED driver will be designed to drive a set current through the LED element(s) and it will set its output voltage at what is necessary to drive the rated current through the LED element(s)

If the LED strip is like this

LED strip.jpg

then you will need a fixed voltage 12 volt DC supply ( not a driver ) and let the resistors in the LED strip control the current.

Unfortunately many manufacturers of power supplies for LEDs label their products incorrectly.

A true driver ( fixed currrent, variable voltage ) is likely to destroy an LED strip
 
It'll probably be labeled up on the manufacturer's sticker as a "Constant Voltage (CV) LED driver", Bernard, and while we know thats just a regulated power supply and not a an LED driver in its true sense which usually gets described as "Constant Current (CC)", that seems to how they are described these days, and I'll leave any arguments to the Pendants on the the forum....
 
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It'll probably be labeled up on the manufacturer's sticker as a "Constant Voltage (CV) LED driver", Bernard, and while we know thats just a regulated power supply and not a an LED driver in its true sense which usually gets described as "Constant Current (CC)", that seems to how they are described these days, and I'll leave any arguments to the Pendants on the the forum....
I agree but there are many PSU's labelled as 'Constant Voltage LED driver' or something similar.
1725571920396.jpeg
from TLC


1725574275294.jpeg
From Downlights direct.

All the time the manufacturers appear to be getting it wrong, what chance does Joe Public have?
 
All the time the manufacturers appear to be getting it wrong, what chance does Joe Public have?
This is a very real problem, maybe the USA use different words, even with ISO words and phrases the USA seem to ignore them and do there own thing, like low voltage (50 - 1000 VAC) and extra low voltage (under 50 volt AC), but first drivers I came across were for aircraft runway lamps, the transformer primaries were wired in series, so the output of each transformer would match, and every bulb would have same light output, and that is the problem with extra low voltage lamps, lights like this
1725609045272.png
with a 1 or 2 meter run are fine, but the tracks are very small, they have points where they can be cut and joined
1725609151429.png
but these can't really be used to extend the length, as the strip will not handle the current without some volt drop.

Wiring in series with a driver does reduce the volt drop problem, with DC low voltage starts at 75 volt, so most will be designed to work under that, and a typical white LED is 3 volt, so 25 LED's would be the max number, which is not really what is wanted. So my own display cabinet has three independent light strips 20220704_220311_1.jpg I changed the out ones, 20230227_170703_1.jpg for a longer set, (5 meters) centre still the original Lidi lamps, (3 meters) so 17 watt outer and 22 watt centre, and when set to full and white, they supplement the rooms lighting, for that size of room the non central chandelier is not enough 20220415_000328_1.jpg how the builders ever thought one ceiling light would be enough I don't know, the original 100 watt bulb was like a tocH candle in such a large room. (22x18 foot)

The switching on is easy, if you want more light, one can easy switch on an uplighter, or display lights, it is on leaving the room the problem arises, your left having to walk around the room, turning them all off, cure was to use smart lights, so 'hey google turn off living room lights' turns them all off, or on of course. I can also change how bright, and colour temperature and colour.

So I have to use the power supply which came with the lights, I did at one point use a smart socket with the original Ikea outer lights, but had to access the power supply to alter how bright or what colour, and power supplies on the top of the units out of view, so that was a pain.

Also often only use right hand side set, next to dinning table, so having them split into three works well.
 

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