Levelling Concrete for Solid Wood Floor

Joined
19 Jan 2006
Messages
215
Reaction score
0
Location
West Midlands
Country
United Kingdom
Hi,

I am trying to lay a solid oak floor in our hallway (5 sq. metres) and what started out a nice idea is turning into a nightmare. Any help or advice would be gratefully appreciated.

My original plan was to fully bond the wood directly to the concrete floor using something like Sika T54 or Rewmar MS Polymer adhesive. However, after lifting the existing carpet and putting a level on the floor, it would appear that I have a couple of depressions upto 5mm running across the centre of the floor. There are also a couple of small but deep dents in the floor.

Although the house is less than 5 years old and is likely to have a DPM, I was going to put down one coat of Stopgap 76 to be on the safe side. Given the level problems, I rang F-Ball and they suggested putting the F76 down, followed by P131 primer, then the Stopgap 300 compound. Does this seem to be the best approach? Being an amateur, I am worried that I will actually make the floor worse using the levelling compound - is this possible. I would imagine that as long as I put down a sufficient layer, it should naturally fall into the greatest areas of depression? Also, how best should I fill the deeper indents - using the compound or something else prior to the compound.

Although I am a little nervous doing all this, my plan of action is:

1. Use wire brush to remove all adhesive from previous underlay, then clean the floor with sugar soap solution (is it best to mop or brush this across the floor). Allow at least 24 hours to dry.

2. Put down Stopgap F76 wall-to-wall putting down slightly thicker to hopefully avoid pinholes, etc. Allow to dry at least 24 hours.

3. Put down P131 over DPM.

4. Put down Stopgap 300 using trowel and spiked roller. Focus on filling the depressions but getting a 3mm level across the rest of the floor. When it starts to dry, remove any obvious lumps with a wet trowel.

I would much appreciate any views on the above, tips or advice.

Many thanks for your time reading this.

Damian
 
Sponsored Links
That sounds like a terrible amount of work for 5 sq m (and expensive).
If I understand correctly you have a sloop, not a bump in your hallway.
When we encounter things like this, we install an underlayment (DPM+insulation) and reduce the sloop (or larger dents) with strips of hardboard where necessary.

Might be a simpler way for you ;)
 
Hi,

Thanks for your quick response.

Yes, they are not bumps and they sink to about 5mm or 6mm below the general level of the rest of the floor. Given your experience and if it was your place, what would you do? For some reason, I had it in my head that full adhesion would be the best technical solution given the concrete floor? Are there pro's and con's to direct glueing versus underlay.

We plan to extend the floor into another room (10 - 15sqm) in a couple of years, would an underlay still be the best solution?

If I was to go with the underlay option, what product would you recommend. Also would you go with one that has strips for glueing to the floor or just glue the tongue and grooves.

I guess deep down I'd like to go with the best option for the best finish.

Many thanks again,

Damian
 
Glueing especially a solid wood flooring down is as good as the quality as you concrete/screed layer. As you know wood is very strong and no adhesive will stop the flooring (in worst case scenario, but we've seen them!) ripping out the screed/concrete.
The 'standard' quality of many concrete floors in the UK made us decide to install most of the flooring we do with the 'floating method', using DPM and sound insulation on concrete/screed underfloors to prevent any moist residue in the underfloor reaching the wood. You have 2-in-1 products nowadays (brands like Timbermate, or brandless - cheaper- ones).

Like you ask, if it was our hallway and floor, we 'wood' use underlay and the 'hardboard strip' method to get the floor as level as possible. When we would extent the floor to another room we would also look at the existing level of the underfloor in that room now (but height differences can always be overcome with thresholds, like ramps or reducers).

Hope this helps, or do come back with more questions, we here to help ;)
 
Sponsored Links
Hi,

Thanks again for your reply and your advice is very much appreciated.

I guess I am a little confused again, as I'd previously got the impression that the 'best' way to lay the wood floor to concrete was by glue. Does using an underlay give the floor bounce - I've got 20mm solid oak?

I would imagine that you'd strongly advise me to avoid the levelling and glue option? Would I get any benefit from having a go and taking a risk with the glue?

Many thanks again,

Damian
 
Damian30 said:
I guess I am a little confused again, as I'd previously got the impression that the 'best' way to lay the wood floor to concrete was by glue. Does using an underlay give the floor bounce - I've got 20mm solid oak?

To tell the truth, there are as many opinions as there are wooden floor installers ;) Our advice is based on experience both in The Netherlands and of lately (last 6 years) in England.
Using underlay doesn't give your floor a bounce, not if the underfloor isn't bouncing also. 20mm Solid wood is pretty heavy on it's own account and will not start bouncing by using the floating method.

Damian30 said:
I would imagine that you'd strongly advise me to avoid the levelling and glue option? Would I get any benefit from having a go and taking a risk with the glue?

No, not strongly advising against it, in the end it's your choice, I only think there are easier (and less-expensive) ways to tackle your problem.
Just remember that the adhesive will stick to your floor, if you have to 'redo' the works, you have to remove the adhesive again, plus you might damage the T&G's in the process (cause some of the adhesive will 'slip' in it)

(Hope you get this reply, the forum is having hiccups today it seems)
 
that's a slope BTW, but far be it from me to correct your English when the only dutch i talk is double.

:D
 
I call it 'creative freedom', but thanks, I never mind being corrected (also here to learn ;))
 
WoodYouLike said:
I call it 'creative freedom', but thanks, I never mind being corrected (also here to learn ;))

You're welcome, your English is better than a lot "native" speakers on here :D (probably mine included)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top