Levelling off plasterboard joints

[Rudie]

Hi,

I am overboarded the loft rafters and am now in the process of plasterboarding. I am screwing in the plasterboard into the rafter beams through the insulation. My problem is that on some joins, the is a ridge of up to 5mm - seems a bit too much to level off via skimming. Its mainly down to the joins not falling near a rafter. One side like you can push level to the other plasterboard, but when released, it raises back out. Is there an easy solution?

Thanks.

 

[Bonni]

Two ways.

You must have a good background, so before insulating and plasterboarding, you could screw lengths of timber to the rafters and string line them through to get a flat even background.

In your case, scrim tape the joints and skim bonding over before plastering out. Plaster is only as flat as the background and can often feel smooth but not flat.

DIY'ers often soldier on. Two things in the trade, you need a datum to work off and it's all about getting the background right before carrying on. In your case, you would sort the two end rafters first with the timber to the angle/height/plane you want them, then string line though to set the others. That datum sets up all the the new timbers and it will give you a flat even background to work off.

 

[Rudie]

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping not to have to take off the insulation! I was hoping there would be some clips that would fit under the flush plasterboard and then over the 'sticking out' plasterboard in order to get them lined up. Will take a look later on.

 

[NeedHelpDIY]

Stating the obvious, but are you using tapered edge boards? I would have also suggested using a 15mm board; double boarding with 12.5mm or getting it skimmed post drylining.

Double boarding is the simplest way of accomplishing a even surface for a diyer if you already have the boards. The joints should be staggered as well.

Hope this helps

 

[Rudie]

Hi using straight edged boards 12.5mm. yes i am staggering the joins too.

 

[NeedHelpDIY]

Hi using straight edged boards 12.5mm. yes i am staggering the joins too.

That will more than likely why the joins are more pronounced. The tapered edge is for what they call tape and joint - paper or mesh tape (scrim) and stuck into the residual tapered joint with filler and then a layer of filler is feathered over the top to create a flush finish.

This is a great resource https://www.familyhandyman.com/drywall/taping/how-to-tape-drywall-joints/view-all/

Also attached is an image

 

[Rudie]

Here is a slight raise (sorry pic didnt upload! will try tomorrow)

 

[roy c]

I would follow Bonni's advice...

 

[Rudie]

Pic

 

[williamglossop]

It sounds like you have joins between the boards that have nothing behind them to screw into..... I assume you are screwing the boards up? If so, you should make sure you have something to screw both boards to where they meet. Suppose you could always use some adhesive behind the boards where they meet to try n get them more flush with eachother

 

[Rudie]

Absolutely correct williamglossop. It’s only this one but am contemplating putting a metal/wood strip behind the flush one and then screwing the outward one into the strip bring them almost level. Any discrepancy I can level out with the plaster finish

 

[williamglossop]

You can also squirt some adhesive foam behind the one that's protruding and then rig up some basic way of pushing it flush till the foam goes off

 

[Rudie]

THanks wasn’t sure whether this will work as it’s foil backed plasterboard?

 

[williamglossop]

Don't think that will make much difference to be honest - I'd try something simple first n see if it works. If not, you'll have to get some timber down the join - either a full length running vertically down the full join so u can screw both boards to it, or several pieces at 400 centres running perpendicular to your join.

 

[Rudie]

Hi, don’t really want to take off the insulation. Will try the strip method first, if that fails, will try the glue option. Will try this next few days and will update this post.