Light advice

[xAlex]

Sorry if I’m repetitive in any way but advice on the following 2 queries would be appreciated:

1 A fcu taken from a s/o, powers a house alarm. From this fcu someone has taken another fcu, the load side of which goes to a security light (wattage unknown). Can I take another cable from the 2nd fcu to another security light (again, this is not purchased yet so wattage unknown). Or, would it be better breaking into the landing ceiling rose, and if this is the best option, would it be ok feeding a 500W or a 1000W light? (customer does not require a switch for the security light but I would put a switched fcu in the loft – sound OK?).

2 I know I’ve asked something similar before but: Is there a neat way to take a feed from a flush single s/o to a surface-mounted fcu (to feed fixed bedside lights). And while I’m on a roll, there is no restriction on fitting such lights to wooden surrounds is there? (i.e. the veneered particle board used for built-in wardrobes etc.).

Thanks again.

Alex

 

[Steve]

1. no, no, and finally no.

2. electrical appliances hard wired to the mains must be fixed to the fabric of the building. If you're fitting to bedroom cupboards, i suggest a plug and socket of some sort.

 

[xAlex]

Thanks Steve,

How about some alternatives for 1 then?

Re. Hard-wired equipment having to be fixed to the fabric of the building. Where does this leave kitchen lights fixed under cupboards?

 

[Space cat]

A fcu taken from a s/o, powers a house alarm. From this fcu someone has taken another fcu, the load side of which goes to a security light (wattage unknown).

--- From this fcu someone has taken another fcu ---

If the second one is taken from the line side of the first one then that's a spur off a spur which is wrong. Adding a third one makes it worse. If it's taken from the load side then, electrically, it's OK because the first fuse protects everything that lies beyond it but ---

It's a really bad idea. You don't want anything else on an alarm circuit that might take its fuse out. Big halogen bulbs of the type commonly found in security lights are good at blowing fuses!

Whichever way you try to do it, putting a third FCU on the end of this dodgy arrangement can only make things worse.

Or, would it be better breaking into the landing ceiling rose, and if this is the best option, would it be ok feeding a 500W or a 1000W light?

Breaking into a ceiling rose means you will be putting a large load onto a circuit already limited to at most 1500 watts (6 amp breaker). How many light bulbs do you have on there already? Can you really afford to put an extra kilowatt on the circuit? Maybe you can spare 500 watts but it's still a bad idea. When that filament turns briefly into an arc lamp, as halogens do in their final milliseconds, it will surely trip a six amp breaker and plunge a whole floor into darkness.

Remove the second FCU from the first one and put it on a ring. Do the same with the third one.

 

[xAlex]

Thanks space cat.
There are 3 bedrooms and a bathroom in the house. If there is a ceiling light in each room and if the landing circuit is taken from the upstairs circuit, and maybe a bit for a fan and wall light in the bathroom, This adds up to about 600W on the lighting circuit. If the circuit is protected by a 6A fuse, this would allow for 1400W. Who wouldn't connect a 500W security light to this circuit? I take your point that it would flip the breaker, but so would a lightbulb.

Any comments on whether hard-wired bedside lights can be fixed to a built-in cupboard/wardrobe arrangement?

I'm gonna leave the FCU's where they are as the second is taken from the load side of the first.

 

[Space cat]

Who wouldn't connect a 500W security light to this circuit? I take your point that it would flip the breaker, but so would a lightbulb.

You should also consider that outside light fittings have a hard life. Water can get in and cause persistent fuse blowing. Do put that switched FCU in as planned. This will give you double pole switching and, with a bit of luck, the fuse will fail before the breaker if you get a leakage fault.

Sorry, I can't really comment on your bedside lights. Somebody else around here will know better.

 

[xAlex]

..Ok, thanks again SC. I will use the FCU for the outside light. I need to run UV stable 1.5mm flex outside. Would you run this all the way from the FCU, (up the wall and loft etc), or use T+cpc up to the point where it goes outside in the loft. Also, does this light (as it is outside), need to be RCD protected?