Light Switch Changeover/Problem

[jackcslimming]

Hi all,

Currently have a smart (?) switch installed in a house I just bought, pictured. Unfortunately the lights will not turn off properly - they glow at a low light level when off, so I'd like to change this ASAP.

I have a two gang dimmer switch I'd like to replace it with (also pictured), but I don't have the manual for either switch. The currently connected switch seems to be connected to L1, L2 and L3.

Could anyone advise me on how to fix my current switch or replace it with the one I have? Thanks in advance!

 

[Taylortwocities]

I guess you have LED lights? If so that dimmer is not compatible. You'll need a specific dimmer for LEDS. The Varilight Pro is made for the job. You can buy it at Screwfix and lots of other places.

The currently connected switch seems to be connected to L1, L2 and L3.

I dont think so. Look again. The live feed in will be on L. The two outputs to the lights are connected to L1 and L2

 

[jackcslimming]

I guess you have LED lights? If so that dimmer is not compatible. You'll need a specific dimmer for LEDS. The Varilight Pro is made for the job. You can buy it at Screwfix and lots of other places.

I dont think so. Look again. The live feed in will be on L. The two outputs to the lights are connected to L1 and L2

Thanks for your advice. Would the switch be completely incompatible, or just unable to dim?

Also - it really seems to be L1, 2 and 3 only. See picture, unless the labelling is completely misleading...

 

[jackcslimming]

I guess you have LED lights? If so that dimmer is not compatible. You'll need a specific dimmer for LEDS. The Varilight Pro is made for the job. You can buy it at Screwfix and lots of other places.

I dont think so. Look again. The live feed in will be on L. The two outputs to the lights are connected to L1 and L2

Pictured in more detail here - has this been installed incorrectly?

 

[ericmark]

Any electronic switch needs power from some where to work it, there are three options:-
1) Use the neutral, this is it seems an option as you do have a neutral at the switch.
2) Use a battery, the LP-link (Tapo) uses this option it works very well.
3) Allow a small amount of current to pass through bulbs even when off.

The latter is the method the switch you have uses, I have two switches using that method, and they publish a compatibility chart however the G9 bulbs it lists don't work, the stayed on dim when switched off, and had a shimmer when switched on.

The staying on dim can be cured with a load capacitor however this did not cure the shimmer when on, so I found a different bulb which worked OK, but physical size very differentso the covers would no longer fit, and the larger bulb technically should not be sold in the UK as no marking as to watts or lumen. However they do work well likely the load capacitor no longer needed, but I have not removed. To fit one there needs to be enough room in the ceiling rose, so when the switches I had failed, they have been replaced with battery type.

The big point is most smart devices require a hub, and I have ended up with four of them, so you need to select one make which will do all you want, then only one hub and app.