Lights in tool lockers

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I have 10 old school-style lockers I use for storing tools, screws, workwear, etc in my garage. I mount small storage boxes and hole-board on the back.

I've always wanted to fit lights and it seems a fun opportunity to make a little project out of it. The main thing I'd like to achieve is that the lights come on when I open the door. I plan 10 low-voltage circuits (one per locker) linked to a transformer which would be running off the lighting circuit - so I can switch it all off, but I'd still prefer the fun of doors opening and the light coming on.

I need to source switches which will do this, and they need to be pretty small.
I had found some small pressure/push-button switches which closed the circuit when released but I can't remember what they were called to find them - they were on CPC/Farnell for a quid each or something but I can't find them now.
I also came across window alarm magnetic switches just now, rather than mechanical. Unsure if I need NO or NC. If the magnet were on the door so it actuates the switch as it closes, I want NC?

Any suggestions?
 
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i would get a 12V dc stabilized powered supply (as used by LED strip lights).
Run one cable from this to all the lockers.
At each locker door fit a 'micro switch' connected to the +12V of the 12V supply cable.

From out put of the micro switch take the +12V and the take the )V from the supply cable to the light in the locker. .

Could use decking lights lit to provide the power and the lights.

Micro Switch example
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V3-Micro...hash=item3aa217cf2b:m:myG_WQQ2OqIjXgWeGWlowLA

Decking Lights Kit example
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-1...811036&hash=item43de2b8355:g:RPwAAOSw4A9cryMA

SFK
 
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Search for "wardrobe switch" quite common to use things like that in bespoke wardrobes, nice and small and light action. You want normally closed yes.
 
if you use small LEDs, and a dry-cell battery, it will last longer than you could have believed possible.

Unless you want to complicate things, you could have a single battery, and a single switch, and turn on a lamp inside all ten lockers at the same time. You can use a finger operated switch unless you crave cost and complexity, or a PIR, or a pressure mat in front of the cabs....
 
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if you use small LEDs, and a dry-cell battery, it will last longer than you could have believed possible.

Unless you want to complicate things, you could have a single battery, and a single switch, and turn on a lamp inside all ten lockers at the same time. You can use a finger operated switch unless you crave cost and complexity, or a PIR, or a pressure mat in front of the cabs....
From quick testing it seems like 4-5W per locker LED gives what I want. I already have a lighting wire handy (it was added when some other work was done in preparation) and a spare LED transfer/power supply so I don't think mains wiring is any more complicated.

The door-operated switches are a total indulgence for the overall power use, I totally agree a single switch would be just fine. As I say this element is just for my own amusement.
 
I need to source switches which will do this, and they need to be pretty small.
I had found some small pressure/push-button switches which closed the circuit when released but I can't remember what they were called to find them - they were on CPC/Farnell for a quid each or something but I can't find them now.
Push to break switches?:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Miniatur...hash=item3cd6ef6885:m:mPWSmL7UxVq7yxU8rKOCIPA

Farnell (noting that some are push to break and most push to make).
https://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/sw...P=KNC-GUK-SHOPPING-TEST-tROAS-23Mar-MULTICOMP
 
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Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
Yes force might be an in an issue for switches, which is which is why I would normally use a micro switch.
However for a metal school locker the switches might be easier to use as might be able to simplly to drill a hole and mount.


For some reason I had not considered reed switches.
I guess because I think of them in low power alarms carrying signal level voltages.
But they are cheap, and might be easy to mount (hot glue gun or arroldite).
And they are rated to carry 10W (I did not know that):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=read+switch

I have no idea if these need to be normally open or closed.

SFK
 
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On the switches my main concern would be these don't lock/latch i.e. as soon as pressure is released they open (unlike a ballpoint pen where you have to push once to open once to close). I don't know any terminology or have the experience to know what is typical.
 
Sorry, all my ideas are for putting the on the doors so they automatically come on when door is open (hence my focus on "normally closed momentary action switches).

You could just use a normal 240V wall light switch on the 240 or the 12V side
(I tend to put these before the Power Supply as then it switches it off when lights not needed).

these don't lock/latch
So you are looking for a "Latching Push Switch" for the 12V side:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...witch.TRS0&_nkw=Latching+Push+Switch&_sacat=0

SFK
 
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No I want to make sure they DON'T latch... the switch requires constant pressure. Is that what "momentary action" means?
 
Yes momentary action normally means the do not latch.
All the earlier ones i suggested should not latch.
Sfk




Quote
momentary action switch is a classification in electronics. It describes an electronic switch's contact type, or how a device is instructed to produce an electric charge. Momentary action switches, as the name suggests, are temporarily activated by applied force and returned to normal when the force is removed
 
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