Lintel Issue

[royalfoster]

Hi there, I have posted about this problem before but now the issue has come to a head.

I'm converting my windows in the lounge into french doors.

I have noticed a hairline crack in the middle of the lintel about 4.5" high going up on the face, it goes underneath and the back of the lintel. I believe this has been caused by drilling into the lintel and inserting wooden dowels for the curtain rail.

Asking you professionals would this be a concern? (See Pic 1&2)

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• royalfoster
• 22 Oct 2010
• 1

Untitled

• royalfoster
• 22 Oct 2010
• 1

Would you replace?
The lintel dimensions are L2040mm H200mm W115mm, it also isn't level, slight slope.

Also outside the course of solider bricks there isn't a lintel at all. The course of solider bricks has cracked and is now resting on the window.

Untitled

• royalfoster
• 22 Oct 2010
• 1

Today I very carefully inserted a steel chisel, gave a little wiggle and the bricks slumped by 5-6 mm (GREAT). A lintel is a given here!!

Asking you chaps.
Would/should i replace the internal load bearing concrete lintel??

Sorry for the long message, just giving as much info as possible.

All help will be welcomed

 

[alittlerespect]

Hi

The situation you find yourself in is quite common where timber windows have been replaced with plastic windows, basically the timber window did not deflect under load from the soldier course whereas the plastic window does, and hence the reason for the soldier course dropping. Going by the photos you can actually see the deflection in the top of the window frame.

The easiest solution would be to pin up the internal and external wall along the length and above the existing lintel height. You would likely need a minimum of 3 pins (or one every 600mm from the end of the lintel) to support the brickwork above. Then take out the offending lintel and window, build up the walls to suit the new opening width and install a new lintel to suit (you could possibly use a catnic lintel which will then provide support to the external soldier course and take any dead weight off the new door frame) and finish by rebuilding the external soldier course.

On a more serious note - If you are going to put in a conservatory you will need to introduce a 'cavity tray' above the roof line of the conservatory where it meets the brickwork otherwise you may well inherit problems with penetrating rainwater.

As for building close to the return wall you will need to be guided by the BCO as there are minimum requirements within the Building Regulations.

Regards

 

[royalfoster]

Thank you for the reply alittlerespect,

The opening from the lounge into the garden isn't getting altered, windows out - french doors in! (hopefully soon)

I've been looking at catnic lintels for a while and phoned them today for advice and they recommend the CH70/100 Heavy duty, as the standard is very close to the SWL. Happy with the requirement of using Fatboys and acro props.

You mentioned "cavity tray" is that required to go over the catnic lintel and ontop of the soffit cladding??

Also
"As for building close to the return wall you will need to be guided by the BCO as there are minimum requirements within the Building Regulations. "

Is that in refence to fitting the french doors to the inside wall? The new doors will sit on the outside leaf only. The cavity gap and brick work will be covered over and made good.

Regards

 

[^woody^]

Lots of these concrete lintels crack on installation or at some point over time and you never see it.

As long as the lintel is not overloaded, and the ends restrained, then it will be OK to leave in place

The external brickwork will need a lintel though

 

[royalfoster]

Lots of these concrete lintels crack on installation or at some point over time and you never see it.

As long as the lintel is not overloaded, and the ends restrained, then it will be OK to leave in place

The external brickwork will need a lintel though

I thought the same, just wondered if anyone had dealt with this situation before, just needed conformation.