Lintel repair - Do we need to use helical bars?

[Strap Flow]

The lintel on two of my windows has become loose. Photo below.

I have hired a builder to fix this and they are recommending simple repointing to fix the issue. However, someone else has recommended that we use helical bars (https://www.permagard.co.uk/advice/lintel-repair-guide) to make the area more strong so that this issue doesn't occur in the future.

Is repointing the appropriate fix for this or do we need to use the bars?

They will be doing repointing work on other bricks around the window as well.

 

[^woody^]

Helical bars will do jack. Ignore that someone's building advice

Also ignore that builder completely (he's not actually a builder, just masquerading as one), as you need more than repointing. It looks like you need a lintel, and if its an arch, rebuilding.

 

[Strap Flow]

Hello Woody,

Thank you for the advice. It looks like the 'builder' I have is a contractor who sub-contracts out various bits of the work to other professionals. He got two other contractors in today who specialise in brick work. Both said that a 'L' shaped lintel needs to be installed after which soldier bricks will be added back. This seems to align with your earlier replies. They are also recommending that we do this on the other three windows as all are showing signs of deterioration.

Total quoted cost is £2700 and the work will take two days (2-3 men working together).

Please advice if this cost is reasonable. Also, I've no idea about this type of work so would appreciate advice on the following:

1. Is the 'L' shaped lintel the right approach?
2. Does the lintel size need to be more than the size of the window so that it rests on bricks?
3. Does the lintel need any 'treatment'?
4. Does the lintel need a cavity tray?

The build is from 60s with bricks and a cavity in between.

Thank you.

 

[^woody^]

Yes that is the correct lintel (but lintel not a piece of angle iron) a lintel will be rust poof, yes it needs at least 100mm bearings either side, and no tray required if it's under the roof eaves.

The cost seems a bit high, but it is a fiddly job and it depends where you are. Even if we say £200 per day for two brickies and £150 for a labourer that's £1100 labour. Plus materials and tower scaffold, it's about £1500. The rest will be the main builder's uplift.

But you really need to get more quotes - or use someone that don't subcontract the work out.

 

[Strap Flow]

Hi Woody,

Thanks for your feedback and advice. I have spent the last 1.5 months in getting quotes from 4-5 builders and the costs have varied from 1.5k to 10k. I'm based in Bedfordshire if that helps. I'm not sure why the high costs were quoted but it may be because most builders are busy nowadays and some may just be trying their luck.

With this contractor, he is taking the effort to explain all steps to me (which I'm using to get advice on online forums). The cost of £2700 also includes re-pointing in the front and back of the property (spread on different parts of the walls) and some work on the fascia. He may be overcharging by a lot but compared to the other quotes and recent experience with builders in getting these quotes, I'm not if I have the bandwidth to go through another cycle of quotes. I'm now trying to make sure he does the work correctly and use the right materials.

Today, he has recommended that we use IG10 lintels for the windows. The construction of the property is brick-based with a cavity wall. I check online and these seem to be galvanised. Are these the right ones to go forward with or do they fall in the category of angle iron?

 

[^woody^]

Yes the IG L10 is fine.

If he's doing the other work stated, and given the palaver and you being happy with the builder's attitude then yeah go for it.

What is happening nowadays it's that there are lots of "builders" and builders competing for work, and many aren't competent so take the easy work for high profits, and this job is not in the easy work category, so fewer want to do it.