Q & A that are commonly asked which might help you with your loft storage project.
This information is for advice only on how to board out your loft the correct way and to avoid and problems, I do recommend you call a professional out to make sure its done properly. If your competent to handle this yourself then read on...
Q. Can I put the loft boards directly on to my existing joists ?
A. Yes providing the joists are at least 6 inches high and your insulation does not protrude over the top. The only problem that can remain is cables and pipes may be in the way.
If they are not adequately high enough and the loft insulation is higher than the joists then install 3x2 or 4x2 running opposite to your existing joists and space evenly for your loft boards at least 600mm centres
Q. Do you stagger the boards or not?
A. To be honest it doesn't matter if your installing a sub-frame as there is always a corner or end supported but we never stagger anyway because it makes it difficult to get up again if you need to access underneath for service purposes.
Q. Why cant I have a light switch on the floor instead of on a pull switch?
A. Anything on a loft floor is a trip hazard and also if its plastic switches you could stand on them and break them and would be dangerous for someone later to put there hand on exposed components.
Q. Two section aluminium ladder or three ?
A. Depends on the make but 3 section is generally stronger and take more weight, also the 3 section will be longer so the reach from landing floor to loft floor will be easier.
Q. What about loft legs instead of wood sub-frame ?
A. Loft legs or stilts is no an actual sub-frame they are just stilts located at various intervals under your loft boarding which can raise the floor level by around 175mm which is quite a height and ideal if you need more clearance that 4x2 wood joists. There strong and flexible to take the weight of the board, you and your items, the only down side is they cost more to install.
Q. What is the standard opening for a new loft hatch ?
A. The standard opening must be 726mm x 566mm to allow a new PVC loft frame and door to be installed. Also the frame of the opening must be supported across the joists, length ways and width ways to add strength.
Q. Can I remove these pieces of wood hanging from my roof , there in the way ?
A. They are whats know as hangers, they are there for a reason, to hold up your ceiling at various points where the joist span is quite a width. The hangers prevent the ceiling joists from sagging and damaging your ceiling.
You may need more if you are boarding your loft so they can take more weight and add more strength.
Q. Can I turn the loft in to a room simply by boarding the ceiling.
A. No its just for storage, and just by laying a sub-frame and boarding the floor, NO, its not recommended.
To officially make an extra room you will need to do your floor properly to allow weight and building regulations will have to be followed, consult a qualified builder or structural engineer to advise on ceiling/floor strengthening
Q. What weight can I keep up there?
A. There is no official weight limits, and it depends on your ceiling support but be sensible and store even over your loft not just in one place, dont put really heavy items in your loft. Try and stick to plastic storage boxes of 10- 15kg max weight in each, and again distribute them evenly across your loft floor.
Q. Will boarding my loft help insulate it better.
A. You should never complete board your loft and never board right to the edges, allow your loft to breath which helps with the efficiency.
I should imagine it will add some insulation to the existing in the areas that are boarded but there is no official reports to verify this that I know of.
Make sure you have adequate insulation down before boarding your loft.
Q. Can I use my existing wood lift off loft door ?
A. We recommend to have a new 726x266 PVC insulated fold down door fitted.
Having to have your existing door reversed and hinged is also hard to insulation properly and leaving as it is will make it awkward to remove to get to your ladder which are hinged to the loft floor.
Q. Can I squash my insulation down >
A. Not really, a little bit maybe but the more you squash it the less efficient it will be. Use 3x2 4x2 or loft legs (stilts)
Just one last thing, when choosing an installer to board your loft, get someone who is approved by a trading scheme with your local council, like Safe Trader or Trustmark as these people have been vetted and approved properly, don't use any trade website like rated people as a lot of these companies on these sites have fake customers to boost there ratings.
I recommend you call Safe Trader as they are run by your local Trading Standards.
Most genuine companies will give you a FREE survey which is required to price the job correctly.
For an average price based on a new 3 bed house with 100 square foot of boarding with sub-frame, a new loft hatch, aluminium ladder & light fitting expect to pay around £390 - £490
This information is for advice only on how to board out your loft the correct way and to avoid and problems, I do recommend you call a professional out to make sure its done properly. If your competent to handle this yourself then read on...
Q. Can I put the loft boards directly on to my existing joists ?
A. Yes providing the joists are at least 6 inches high and your insulation does not protrude over the top. The only problem that can remain is cables and pipes may be in the way.
If they are not adequately high enough and the loft insulation is higher than the joists then install 3x2 or 4x2 running opposite to your existing joists and space evenly for your loft boards at least 600mm centres
Q. Do you stagger the boards or not?
A. To be honest it doesn't matter if your installing a sub-frame as there is always a corner or end supported but we never stagger anyway because it makes it difficult to get up again if you need to access underneath for service purposes.
Q. Why cant I have a light switch on the floor instead of on a pull switch?
A. Anything on a loft floor is a trip hazard and also if its plastic switches you could stand on them and break them and would be dangerous for someone later to put there hand on exposed components.
Q. Two section aluminium ladder or three ?
A. Depends on the make but 3 section is generally stronger and take more weight, also the 3 section will be longer so the reach from landing floor to loft floor will be easier.
Q. What about loft legs instead of wood sub-frame ?
A. Loft legs or stilts is no an actual sub-frame they are just stilts located at various intervals under your loft boarding which can raise the floor level by around 175mm which is quite a height and ideal if you need more clearance that 4x2 wood joists. There strong and flexible to take the weight of the board, you and your items, the only down side is they cost more to install.
Q. What is the standard opening for a new loft hatch ?
A. The standard opening must be 726mm x 566mm to allow a new PVC loft frame and door to be installed. Also the frame of the opening must be supported across the joists, length ways and width ways to add strength.
Q. Can I remove these pieces of wood hanging from my roof , there in the way ?
A. They are whats know as hangers, they are there for a reason, to hold up your ceiling at various points where the joist span is quite a width. The hangers prevent the ceiling joists from sagging and damaging your ceiling.
You may need more if you are boarding your loft so they can take more weight and add more strength.
Q. Can I turn the loft in to a room simply by boarding the ceiling.
A. No its just for storage, and just by laying a sub-frame and boarding the floor, NO, its not recommended.
To officially make an extra room you will need to do your floor properly to allow weight and building regulations will have to be followed, consult a qualified builder or structural engineer to advise on ceiling/floor strengthening
Q. What weight can I keep up there?
A. There is no official weight limits, and it depends on your ceiling support but be sensible and store even over your loft not just in one place, dont put really heavy items in your loft. Try and stick to plastic storage boxes of 10- 15kg max weight in each, and again distribute them evenly across your loft floor.
Q. Will boarding my loft help insulate it better.
A. You should never complete board your loft and never board right to the edges, allow your loft to breath which helps with the efficiency.
I should imagine it will add some insulation to the existing in the areas that are boarded but there is no official reports to verify this that I know of.
Make sure you have adequate insulation down before boarding your loft.
Q. Can I use my existing wood lift off loft door ?
A. We recommend to have a new 726x266 PVC insulated fold down door fitted.
Having to have your existing door reversed and hinged is also hard to insulation properly and leaving as it is will make it awkward to remove to get to your ladder which are hinged to the loft floor.
Q. Can I squash my insulation down >
A. Not really, a little bit maybe but the more you squash it the less efficient it will be. Use 3x2 4x2 or loft legs (stilts)
Just one last thing, when choosing an installer to board your loft, get someone who is approved by a trading scheme with your local council, like Safe Trader or Trustmark as these people have been vetted and approved properly, don't use any trade website like rated people as a lot of these companies on these sites have fake customers to boost there ratings.
I recommend you call Safe Trader as they are run by your local Trading Standards.
Most genuine companies will give you a FREE survey which is required to price the job correctly.
For an average price based on a new 3 bed house with 100 square foot of boarding with sub-frame, a new loft hatch, aluminium ladder & light fitting expect to pay around £390 - £490