Loft Insulation, downlighters and LEd

[Lusi83]

I have had 'LED downlighters' fitted in my bathroom and now want to sort out the insulation in the attic....
(I thought that meant they came as a unit but have realised they are 'normal' downlighters with LED bulbs fitted...feeling a bit stupid now! Electrician said I 'don't need to worry' about insulation -thought I knew what he meant - but now think maybe I don't )
I have the packaging from the downlighters - they are 100min, fire rated shower GU10 240v mains downlighters - max 35W.
So do I need to make/buy hoods before covering with insulation - or can I put 270mm rockwool straight on top of them? Or just leave a gap around them...
And if because they LEDs I can do that - what is stop someone in the future putting halogen ones in there and would that cause a problem?

 

[Burnerman]

Proper fire hoods are very expensive - I created my own by using inverted plant pots...terracotta of course! LED systems should be cool anyway.
With the normal GU10's up there, everything is completely cool.
John

 

[Lusi83]

I made plasterboard boxes for the 'normal' downlighters in current house...mainly cause I had lots of plasterboard off cuts...plant pots seem an easier option
Just thought because these were LED and 'special' and what electrician said I didn't need to....
oh well you live and learn ...

 

[Burnerman]

Certainly loads of heat from a light fitting when its enclosed spooks me big time.....I've tried replacing my original GU10's with various plug in replacements and none of them have been any good - they start off fine but get really dim in a few months. At up to a tenner a throw I'm back with the 'ungreen' lamps now.
Your plasterboard boxes will be fine - maybe not as tough as flower pot man!
John

 

[nawaz]

Similar issue with downlighters since I have lots of plaster board left I'm going to make plasterboard boxes for each downlight. My question is should the box be airtight? I read elsewhere that the hot air in the room can be sucked into the loft as the loft is cooler. Should the the box be ventilated to reduce heat buildup or be airtight to stop warm escape the room and go into the loft ??

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

In the kitchen of my bungalow, we have 10 down lighters. Each one as fitted had the insulation left turned back for about 9" all round. I built my own plasterboard fire hoods for each one. Each of the boxes, had a piece of aluminium 3" wide strip fitted inside its top cover. This strip was then bent upwards so it would stand above the new added loft insulation. That was for "30watt" replacement LEDs (7W). For the additional "50" watt replacement (10W), I actual fabricated a closed tube so that it would clip on the back of the bulb and these poked out from the plasterboard boxes and through the insulation.
Holes in ceiling are a fire danger in a bungalow, a pan fire on a cooker can set fire to the roof void.
FIW, The Philips LEDs have now been in for more then two years, so they have paid for them selves in the amount of electricity they have saved.
Frank

 

[nawaz]

I see so the aluminum strip acted like a heat sync cooling the inside of the plasterboard hood ?

 

[ironsidebod]

Similar issue with downlighters since I have lots of plaster board left I'm going to make plasterboard boxes for each downlight. My question is should the box be airtight? I read elsewhere that the hot air in the room can be sucked into the loft as the loft is cooler. Should the the box be ventilated to reduce heat buildup or be airtight to stop warm escape the room and go into the loft ??

Follow the manufacturers instructions regarding required air space and size your plasterboard box accordingly. Any above a bathroom should be sealed to prevent moist/very moist air entering the ceiling/roof space and causing mould/rot.