Getting new kitchen fitted going to move current programmer Landis & Gyr to different location so thought would take opportunity to replace it and current roomstat, which is in totally the wrong place with new one and wireless stat. The system I have is in the pictures included and wondered if anyone could offer advice on good replacement that wont cost the earth ,please.
Looking for replacement programmer and wireless thermostat.
- Thread starter darren6645
- Start date
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Your existing Landis & Gyr programmer has separate time control for hot water and central heating. You don't tell us anything about the system it is connected to, so I will assume that as the majority of systems this programmer is fitted to are either Y-Plan (having one, 3- Port motorised valve) or an S-Plan (having two, 2-Port motorised valves)
A lot of the wireless thermostats available only provide control of the heating. They don't have hot water control as they are primarily designed for combi boilers, or systems with multiple zones. Therefore, I would suggest that either you:
1) Purchase a wireless thermostat with receiver that does include hot water control such as the Honeywell RF2 (cost about £160)
2) Purchase a replacement programmer for the Landis & Gyr that is single channel only, and use the single channel for the hot water control, then modify the wiring to add in a separate wireless room thermostat to control just the heating. Ironically to do this, the parts would probably be cheaper (e.g. Drayton LP111 single channel programmer £50 + Drayton Digistat+RF £65) but more work would be involved.
Generally with heating controls, you get what you pay for. Salus make a budget range but the quality / reliability seem questionable. Honeywell, Drayton, Danfoss are usually pretty good.
Hive, Nest & Tado seem to be fairly reliable also but cost more, and unless you have a need to operate your heating remotely via an app, don't really offer other tangible benefits to most users.
A lot of the wireless thermostats available only provide control of the heating. They don't have hot water control as they are primarily designed for combi boilers, or systems with multiple zones. Therefore, I would suggest that either you:
1) Purchase a wireless thermostat with receiver that does include hot water control such as the Honeywell RF2 (cost about £160)
2) Purchase a replacement programmer for the Landis & Gyr that is single channel only, and use the single channel for the hot water control, then modify the wiring to add in a separate wireless room thermostat to control just the heating. Ironically to do this, the parts would probably be cheaper (e.g. Drayton LP111 single channel programmer £50 + Drayton Digistat+RF £65) but more work would be involved.
Generally with heating controls, you get what you pay for. Salus make a budget range but the quality / reliability seem questionable. Honeywell, Drayton, Danfoss are usually pretty good.
Hive, Nest & Tado seem to be fairly reliable also but cost more, and unless you have a need to operate your heating remotely via an app, don't really offer other tangible benefits to most users.
Thanks for the reply, I was assuming the pictures I attached would explain my system, here goes!
My current setup was in the house from new. I have a 180ltr tank containing primary water heated by the boiler circulated via a pump, this water is fed round the heating system via a second pump when required. In the tank is a coil heat exchanger that is fed with mains pressure water which is heated via the water in the tank and blended with cold to a safe temp. I have one roomstat in the house. Because of my system I can only get hot water from the tap if the primary water in the tank is hot therfore when I press hotwater on the programmer the boiler fires up and heats the primary water tank contents if I then press ch the water is circulated via radiators. If I only press ch both hot water and ch will illuminate as the tank needs to be hot to supply the hot water for ch, but I don't set any temp for hot water via programmer as this is done via a preset blender valve exit the tank. I do require to be able to set on off times for both and want to be able to move the thermostat to any room. Boiler is a Vaillant eco tec 418.Hope this makes sense .
My current setup was in the house from new. I have a 180ltr tank containing primary water heated by the boiler circulated via a pump, this water is fed round the heating system via a second pump when required. In the tank is a coil heat exchanger that is fed with mains pressure water which is heated via the water in the tank and blended with cold to a safe temp. I have one roomstat in the house. Because of my system I can only get hot water from the tap if the primary water in the tank is hot therfore when I press hotwater on the programmer the boiler fires up and heats the primary water tank contents if I then press ch the water is circulated via radiators. If I only press ch both hot water and ch will illuminate as the tank needs to be hot to supply the hot water for ch, but I don't set any temp for hot water via programmer as this is done via a preset blender valve exit the tank. I do require to be able to set on off times for both and want to be able to move the thermostat to any room. Boiler is a Vaillant eco tec 418.Hope this makes sense .
OK, that's sounds like a thermal store, not a particularly common type of installation. I have only seen a couple of that type (Gledhill Boilermate) but they had three pumps, one for the boiler & thermal store, another for the central heating and a third for circulating the hot water from the thermal store through a heat exchanger that then supplied the taps. They had a proprietary controller on board, that sorted out the switching functions.
From a controls point of view, the only drawback with your description, is that the hot water needs to be activated when the central heating is switched 'on' in order to start the boiler. Most (but not all) programmers have this facility because the old 'gravity fed' hot water systems needed to do this also.
So, if with your present controller with the heating and hot water set to off, if you then just turn the heating 'on' it automatically selects the hot water to be 'on' also, then choose a like for like programmer that has a 'gravity' mode. If you choose one that doesn't have the facility then, it would be down to you to program it so that when you want the heating on, the hot water is set to come on too, or it might be possible to perform a bit of 'jiggery pokery' with the wiring to achieve the same thing.
If you do find a programmer you would like to consider, do an internet search for the instructions to check to see it it does have the facility to be set to a 'gravity' mode of operation.
From a controls point of view, the only drawback with your description, is that the hot water needs to be activated when the central heating is switched 'on' in order to start the boiler. Most (but not all) programmers have this facility because the old 'gravity fed' hot water systems needed to do this also.
So, if with your present controller with the heating and hot water set to off, if you then just turn the heating 'on' it automatically selects the hot water to be 'on' also, then choose a like for like programmer that has a 'gravity' mode. If you choose one that doesn't have the facility then, it would be down to you to program it so that when you want the heating on, the hot water is set to come on too, or it might be possible to perform a bit of 'jiggery pokery' with the wiring to achieve the same thing.
If you do find a programmer you would like to consider, do an internet search for the instructions to check to see it it does have the facility to be set to a 'gravity' mode of operation.
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Thanks I'll check it out, great help cheers.
I currently have the hotwater set to come on before the heating so that wouldn't be a problem only issue would be if someone tried to boost the ch and hotwater hadn't been on I'll look for a like for like, do you think the Honeywell rf2 is no good then ?
It is, if you click on 'more info' on the web page that you posted, you will see that it says..
..so no hot water time control. However that makes a mockery of describing it as "suitable for gravity fed" as I've yet to come across a gravity fed combi.
I can't say for certain. I can't see in the instructions any mention of being suitable for 'gravity fed'. (although I have only scan read it) Other than they do show it with a C-Plan which is gravity fed, but the provision of the motorised valve that they have shown provides a changeover contact that gets around having to have the hot water 'on' to get the heating 'on'.
There is a number for the Technical Help Desk: 08457 678999 They should be able to confirm this.
Thanks for all your help and advice, much appreciated,I'll give them a ring.
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