Loose Beading Around Stove Chamber

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Stove has been fitted and base coat and beading added to the chamber by the installer.

Despite base coat some of the beading is still loose, what's the best way of dealing with this?

Is it as simple as working more plaster into the gaps and wait till dry then apply finishing coat?

Or is there a better way?
 
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Here you go.

You can't see from the pics but the metal is rather wobbly.
 

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that dont look like a professional job. whats the rest of the work look like - esp. safety? Have you been reading similar threads on here?

you dont allow gypsum to set up an then have to pva over it before you can apply skim - its both coats applied over a short period.
plus the "base" is too proud, and theres no room been left for skimming without leaving a bump.

best bet is to hack off all thats been done an do it again after first taking out the background suction.
the angle bead can be first fixed with two clout nails per piece.
you've got what looks like skim bead but it will probably just do - skim bead is for plasterboard.
the rest of the wall plaster, or is it a chimney breast face, looks a bit rough.

why not stand back in the room and do a larger area photo? there's dark smudges showing on the wall plaster.
 
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To be quite honest BathDIY, that does not look good. If a job starts falling to pieces from the start, what will the end result look like. Is the person doing the plastering, a plasterer, or someone who is doing a bit of everything, and doesn't really know what he's doing?
 
Here are some more pics as requested by @bobasd

The installer is HETAS approved, so it should be safe. Have just checked them against HETAS website and they are present.

Worse still he was recommended by many people, so we assumed he could do this at least to a good standard.

It's not just the plaster, the Oak beam can't be installed as the holes aren't level see: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/tool-to-enlarge-drill-hole.512450/

We talked about the beam being fitted within the plaster but this went by the wayside on the last day. Lots of reasons why not, plaster reacts with Oak, water will make Oak go black, this way you can paper behind it (even though it will now be glued in) etc.

Also, the slate is a mile off being level, (see the image with level).

I think he may be a bit ill at present, so I want to be understanding but I am pretty fed up.

Yes, the wall is pretty rough and we do want to paper the room, and we weren't looking for perfection, just a competent job.

Given that we are papering the room whats the best course of action should I rip out the beading and start again?
 

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yes, remove the rough crazed plaster and the angle bead .
use stop beads next time not angle bead.

the oak mantle is another matter.
given the track record so far its best to take it down for safety's sake, and get a joiner in to fix it safely after the chimney breast is papered or painted.
 

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