Loose Beech Woodblock floor- conflicting advice

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Hi
We have moved into a 1950's house which has beech woodblock herringbone floor throughout much of the downstairs. Unfortunately, many of the blocks are loose, and have some have even come unstuck from the concrete. This is particularly bad in the hall, where it gets heaviest use. In addition, the blocks shrink in the Winter (?due to central heating) so some have huge gaps between them so bad that you can lift the blocks out completely. Fortunately this is restricted to small areas in the hall. However, although the other rooms dont have such shrinkage the blocks are obviosly not all firmly stuck to the concrete.
The blocks have been stuck with Bitumen in the past.

I have asked several people for advise including floor people, but get conflicting advise. Most people want us to abandon this floor and get a new one. I understand that there is some moisture in the concrete and they want us to fix the subfloor with epoxy and then lay a new floor and sand and seal.
Our question is can we not clean up the really loose blocks, relay them and reduce gaps by pinning or putting in a more robust wooden border, and then sand and treat but without sealing the gaps, so they can expand and shrink a bit without cracking a sealed surface? If the hall is not salvagable, Can we sand the sitting room floor as it is- ie blocks may not be firmly stuck down but theres very little morement and no big gaps

If the floor people are to be beleived, and we need to consider a new floor, then presumably we have nothing to lose by trying, apart from hours at the weekend and our sense of humour (as I understand its a pretty frustrating job)
Many thanks for considering
Mdasx
 
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mdasx said:
Our question is can we not clean up the really loose blocks, relay them and reduce gaps by pinning or putting in a more robust wooden border, and then sand and treat but without sealing the gaps, so they can expand and shrink a bit without cracking a sealed surface? If the hall is not salvagable, Can we sand the sitting room floor as it is- ie blocks may not be firmly stuck down but theres very little morement and no big gaps
Can't see why you shouldn't be able to do this?
As long as you know that bitumen residue and modern adhesive don't go very well together i.e. longer bonding time.

You could even use the sand-dust (second sanding, without all the 'rubbish' from the original finish in the first sanding), mix it with woodfiller and fill the gaps.

Hope this helps
 
Many thanks woodulike. We are thinking of starting on the sitting room next week and will see how we get on. Just a thought. If the floor is loose here, but not coming up, can we still use the woodfiller technique you mention
Best wishes
Mdasx
 
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may i humbly suggest you pick an area least likly to be noticed under the stairs or a sofa for example and see how it works before going for the open floor

your realy best to choose an area least likley to be noticed to try solutions :D ;)
 

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