Loose double socket

[Longshanks]

Hi

Qualified spark put in socket and then ran cable from there to provide sockets for our conservatory. (About 5 years ago)

Noticed other day that socket has worn loose from wall. This is due to plasterboard disintegrating around fixings. (Photos attached)

What can I do in this situation??

Thanks

L

 

[omega015]

First would be to stop using it or putting any unnecessary strain on it with plugs etc... Is there a massive hole at the back of that socket as it looks like that plasterboard plug has absolutely nothing to go into or ever had. Or maybe its lathe and plaster.... anyway do you have enough space to fit a dry lining back box? These fit inside the wall and the socket is then flush(ish) to the wall.

If you have enough room for the above then this would be the best choice, you will need to make a minor adjustment to the trunking to get the cable to go behind the wall into the box. Alternatively you could try some glue/silicone to stick the back box to the remaining plaster if there is enough to secure it. Also another thing you could try is to glue some wood inside the wall/hole which will give you something to screw/glue the box onto.

Obviously should go without saying but isolate the supply to the socket so its not live when doing any of this.


EDIT: From what I read, that socket goes on to feed the conservatory sockets, is the socket part of the ring main do you know? Is there any fused protection from this socket to the conservatory? How many wires enter this socket?

 

[Longshanks]

Many thanks for comprehensive response. I'm struggling to remember, but think there was always a socket there that he used, so probably part of ring.

Also definitely basic plasterboard wall. The box was fitted proud rather than inside hole for some reason, but it was all done when we had conservatory built, as previously stated. The main part of the box was secured to the plugs you can see in the pictures, and these, in turn, were originally knocked into the plasterboard. I can see the remains of the holes which have obviously widened over time, so causing our problem.

Thanks again.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Qualified spark put in socket

Wiring Regulation 134.1.1 :

Good workmanship by skilled or instructed persons and proper materials shall be used in the erection of the electrical installation.​

 

[winston1]

As an aside, you have a nasty Homeplug device plugged into that socket. Get rid of it and its partner and run CAT 6 cable. Homeplugs use the mains wiring to carry data which it is not designed to do. Consequently it radiates and causes radio interference to your neighbours up to a kilometre away. Most affected is short wave radio, but the latest high speed types affect DAB and FM radio and possibly air traffic control which uses similar frequencies.
It is time these devices were banned.

 

[Iggifer]

Is that even plasterboard or is that that nasty cardboard egg box partition 'soundproofing' that had a bit of a phase?

If it is cardboard, plasterboard fixings are the reason it's come loose, needs to be a dry lining box as above

 

[FrodoOne]

Longshanks,

To me it seems that your problem is not “Electrical” but it is a “Building Construction” (or affixing) problem.

After five years, the “block” to which a double Socket Outlet was affixed has become detached.

While this may have been due to poor quality workmanship in the first place, the solution is to make the “fixing” strong enough to hold the “block” and whatever is connected to it on the wall concerned.

From the picture which you have posted, it seems that the major part of the wall concerned is of a type of masonry construction.

While screws designed for metal or timber are not suitable for inserting into a masonry wall, the usual practice is to insert into the wall concerned some type of material which would accept such screws – usually, wood screws. These days, this is usually a plastic insert. (In “olden days”, it was usually wood.)

Your fourth picture illustrates a screw-in a plastic device which may have been suitable for inserting into plaster board and into which a wood screw may then have been inserted.

However, it seems that all structures around it have collapsed.


Your main options now are
to either in some way replace the now disintegrated “plaster board” and to re-affix such a device or simple wood screw into it or
to penetrate what appears to be a masonry wall behind it and insert into this a (plastic) “fixing” suitable for inserting a rather longer “wood screw”.

To do the first of these, there are many modern composite materials (such as epoxy resins, sometimes in association with “fiber glass”) which may be used to reinstate what appears to be the small area of collapsed wall structure.
Such products may also be of assistance if you use the second option.

While these products are not as cheap as common plaster, they are not particularly expensive, considering the size (volume) of the problem area.
They are, also, much stronger.

Good Luck

 

[Longshanks]

Many thanks for clear and constructive responses again. The trunking below aforementioned socket is attached to outside of wall, so any "dry lining box" would need to be adapted, to take cable from this? (First poster suggested this, but not sure how to achieve this?)

House is 1981, so not sure what species of plaster/board configuration used etc. One can see masonry at back, as said.

Re Internet adapter: will run cat 6 if necessary, but this provides good snd reliable speed for son's Xbox. I won't profess to understand all the radiating risks, but this is BT device etc????

Thanks again.

 

[omega015]

In order to fit the dry lining box you first need to make sure the hole is deep enough for it 35mm deep should be enough with a little room to spare. Assuming it fits, you would need to take the cable into the wall through the back of the trunking and then up inside the dry lining box. You will then just need a piece of trunking end cap to go onto the top of the trunking to make the finishing a little neater.

If you do not have a fused switch somewhere between that socket and the first conservatory socket (assuming the conservatory is a spur from your ring main) then would be a good time to add a FCU.

 

[sparkwright]

If you're sure that's masonry behind then you could fit a flushed in metal knockout box to it.

However, as Iggy suggests, it does look a bit like that crummy egg-box partition stuff.

Another alternative could be to use a larger surface mounted triple socket, to get a new fixing.

 

[Longshanks]

Many thanks "again, again". Will see if I can get dry lining box in and report progress.

Appreciate your time and expertise.

L

 

[Simon35]

If you're sure that's masonry behind then you could fit a flushed in metal knockout box to it.

However, as Iggy suggests, it does look a bit like that crummy egg-box partition stuff.

Another alternative could be to use a larger surface mounted triple socket, to get a new fixing.

That crummy eggbox partition stuff is called Paramount partitioning. I've loaded out dozens of new houses with it whilst labouring for my builder dad as a student....bl***y heavy stuff.

 

[winston1]

Re Internet adapter: will run cat 6 if necessary, but this provides good snd reliable speed for son's Xbox. I won't profess to understand all the radiating risks, but this is BT device etc????

Thanks again.

When these devices first came out BT fitted Comtrend models which were particularly bad and Ofcom ordered them to remove them whenever there was a complaint.

So don't assume BT devices are anything but Bl**dy Trash.