Main Combi 30 HE - removing mechanical timer for wireless

[blasted]

Hi there I hope someone can help.

I have a Main Combi 30 HE boiler installed and its running off the supplied mechanical timer.

I would like to change to the mechanical timer over to a radio controlled timer/thermostat mounted in the hallway.

I have bought a kit (forgot name) and wired the receiver to a fused spur as per the instructions. The Hall mounted programmer is battery powered.

I then wired the receiver to the boiler, which I have done as per the instructions, this included removing a link on the terminal block.

I then disconnect the mechanical timer from the PCB

Following the test procedure for the timer/thermostat I crank the temperature request right up. A get a flame symbol on the controller, a switch clicks in the receiver. I bring the temperature request back down and the flame symbol goes off and the receiver switches again. This proves they are communicating correctly.

However the boiler does not fire up.

It was mentioned by someone that when the boiler is supplied there is a cap? Which goes on the end of the mechanical timer cable to close it out, and that this is often discarded when the mechanical timer is fitted. The cable comprises of 4 spade connectors which go onto the back of the mechanical timer.

If I remove everything and put the mechanical timer back in with the link, it works fine.

So my question is, do I need to close out the 4 spade connectors? If so can I buy a replacement cap or which connector connects to which? That way I can do it with standard electrical connections.

Thanks for any assistance you can offer.


Page 47 of this will help explain,

http://www.mainheating.co.uk/docs/main_combi_30_he_installation_service.pdf

 

[blasted]

In another thread with a similar problem involving a Baxi duotech (similar 4 pins) it was suggested that they leave the clock in and set it to constant, and leave the switching to the stat/timer

Yay or nay?

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

Don't join 1 and 2 together! They are Mains Live and neutral to power the clock.
The remaining 2 wires make a call for heat when they are joined together.

 

[blasted]

Thanks, but should I just leave clock in and set to fully on or wire it out?

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

The choice is yours.

 

[gas112]

leave it in position otherwise you have a hole in front of facia which inquiring fingers might go into

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

I know it's too late now but for the benefit of anyone else reading this I fit This Product now.
It just goes into the timer position and you have a wireless programmable roomstat all set up for minimum chew and not a lot of money.
Salus did have a bad name a while back but they've got over that and I have been fitting these for a quite a while now without any hassle.