Mains lamp wiring help please

[Alicew]

Hi,
I have been asked to make some of these marquee lights for a friends bar- I've put up a picture.

The frames are made of mdf, some of them will have aluminium edges like the H pictured
They take e14 240v incandescent bulbs at the moment
They are wired with 2 core wire push in plastic lamp holders that the fairground industry use to wire their fairground sign lights
They Have a ce approved 3amp 2 core plug with a rotary switch

My question is how do I make these safe and fit with regulation at 240v?

If I double insulate the wiring between the lamp holders will they be safe?
For the ones with aluminium edges do I have to use 3 core and earth the edges?

Or do I have to use a transformer to take the voltage down to 24vand buy some lower voltage bulbs?

I am planning to get them pat tested before they go in the bar but want to make sure I'm building them right first.

Thanks for your help, please don't be mean to me!
Alice

Untitled

• Alicew
• 8 Feb 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Alicew
• 8 Feb 2014
• 1

 

[ericmark]

Electrical items are type tested and little stickers are placed on them to show they have passed the type testing to be either Class II (no earth) or Class I (earth wire used) I have told many a client to take their lovely desk lamp home as although safe it does not have the markings required to use in an office where HSE may visit.

So as Class I with earth wires you may get away with small quantity production but Class II is not really an option. With Class III that's under 50 volt ac supplied with an isolation power supply then as long as the power supply has the stickers then really your OK.

Fire is of course another consideration all it needs is a coat put on them and they may over heat. Clearly same applies to any other light but cold lamps would satisfy any enquiry when things do go wrong that you took all reasonable steps.

I am assuming a public bar so public liability insurance will be required and putting in something which is an undeclared risk could invalidate insurance and this is the real problem.

Personally I would look at LED lighting in doors. Out doors the heat from the lamps can help keeping the water out although on cooling it can do reverse and suck it in all down to design.

Since 12 volt lighting is common I would look at 12 volt. Next is 30 volt (24v) used with wagons. If you can use some one else's wiring and so get the required stickers great. Christmas lights may provide ready made chains of lights as will some of the LED under counter ribbon lights.

At home I would not be worried it the bar thing and PLI which is the problem.