Making door frame and glazed french doors

[bilbobaggins]

In what was external, but now an internal 10" wall, I've removed an old first-floor window and brickwork to floor level, to give access to a storage space. The resulting opening is 179cm high x 108cm wide x 28cm deep ( brick+plaster+render ). I want to construct and fit an oak hardwood frame, then a pair of french doors which will be glazed with bought-in d/g units ( noise ) 20mm thick.

I have been advised to 'haunch', or rebate, the ends of the frame top-piece in way of the uprights/jambs ( ? ) so the architrave pieces hide the join line. Good idea - or not?

I'd like to construct the doors as well as the frame, but am uncertain whether my attempts at M&T joints will be good enough. Could I construct effective glued 'loose tenon' joints, also pegging through using the Millar Mini - or similar - dowelling system?

I have a Kreg pocket hole 'thingy', a sliding mitre saw, routers, simple router table, drills, clamps and various other tools - but not a bench morticer. How best should I proceed and are there any tools/jigs/jointing tools I really ought to buy/use? Should I purchase a bench morticer, or could I manage well enough without?

 

[big-all]

sliding mitre perfect tool assuming it has trenching
get yourself some 1 1/4-1 1/2" thick planes timber cut a 10mm groove for the legs to sit in and prevent twisting

if required pack the work away from the fence
the back edge of the work needs to be no further back than the centre off the blade
so iff the the centre of the blade is 1" away from the fence when trenching you need to pack out the gap with a 1" bit off timber the length of the fence


aaahhh just remembered you said 10"
what length off cut does your saw have!!!
full trenching is likly to be 2 or 3" less than that


you could of course use a batton a 6 to 12mm cutter and a series of passes

 

[awbcm]

Check out this guide