Making Plywood containers

[griffin]

Hi, I am wanting to build some relatively small boxes/containers (45-60cm ish) to fit in some awkward places in a campervan. They will mostly have to have 4 or 5 sides making an irregular shape (for footwells etc).

I think Plywood is the way to go (3 or 4mm?) but is there a product that I can use for 'flexible corners' I was thinking about some sort of strip that would act like a hinge allowing separete pieces to be joined ? The construction could than be made 'solid' by accurately cut end pieces (hope that makes sense).

Failing that what is the best way to make reasonably sturdy joins, I haven't the equipment, time or skills for anything fancy Looking at some boat building sites I guess resin is a possibility? Because the joins wont necessarily be 90 degrees I think it'd be hard for me to cut accurately enough for just gluing and panel pins.

Any help appreciated - as you can tell this is all a bit new to me.

 

[Scrit]

Hi Griffin

I think you might struggle with thism but you might find that strips of cancas (sailcloth or even old denum jeans) glued on with a weatherproof (exterior grade) PVA glue might do the trick. The only problem is that the corners might still be rather "floppy" unless you glue an angled block up the inside corners. I'd also consider going with a thicker base, say 6 to 8mm plywood as this would give your box a lot more rgigidity and provide enough glue line to make for a stronger construction - tacking through the sides (predrill the holes) then using gimp pins (tacks) to strength the base/side joint would also be a good idea and would result in something noyt unlike a shaker box

Scrit

 

[David P]

Hi Griffin

I think you might struggle with thism but you might find that strips of cancas (sailcloth or even old denum jeans) glued on with a weatherproof (exterior grade) PVA glue might do the trick. The only problem is that the corners might still be rather "floppy" unless you glue an angled block up the inside corners. I'd also consider going with a thicker base, say 6 to 8mm plywood as this would give your box a lot more rgigidity and provide enough glue line to make for a stronger construction - tacking through the sides (predrill the holes) then using gimp pins (tacks) to strength the base/side joint would also be a good idea and would result in something noyt unlike a shaker box

Scrit

scrit - I was just about to suggest the canvas hinge trick too. I've used it often and have found a way of making the corners really tight. so here goes...

take two sides and lay them next to each other nice and tightly, on a rigid flat surface.

cut a strip of strong canvas (cotton duck, the stuff artists use is excellent) so that it runs the whole length of the join and overhangs each side at least an inch (although you can do the whole thing with one peice, making a canvas lined box).

thoroughly soak the canvas in 'evo stick resin w waterproof' and lay it over the seam.
lay a peice of clingfilm over it (so it doesnt stick to..) lay a board over the whole lot and clamp/weight the thing as much as possible (till the glue oozes is good). wait for it to set.

do the other two sides in the same way.

when you undo them they will fold in one direction only, like a book. the trick is to get the wood so close together that the canvas is all stuck to it, with less than a single threads width making the hinge.

now take these two and lay two edges together, so that the outer pages of your 'books' open upwards, to make the third fold.
again do the glue canvas thing and lay the clingfilm.
now instead of using a board - lay another strip of glue canvas over the clingfilm and close the outer sides so that they meet to make the fourth fold directly over the third fold. making two hinges at once, seperated by clingfilm.
add the board and weight/clamp again till glue oozes.

when its set - pull the thing open - remove all the clingfilm and you have a very firm collapsable box.

of course getting the bottom to stay in place is more tricky and is probably best done by leaving one side short and putting a groove in the others so it slides in from the side (so your box will be collapsable), although it is possible with wide straps of velcro.
or if you want a permanent rigid box, just glue it.

remember wood glue only works well if it is clamped to as thin a film as possible.

 

[Scrit]

Interesting to see it done to produce something rigid. I normally only use canvas and glue to produce tambours, where movement is required. Thanks for the info David P!

Scrit

 

[griffin]

Thanks for the info guys. Interested in the wood glue comment 'thin as possible' ? Is this a case of less is more?

Also roughly how long are we talking to let it dry, is it hours or days ?

Brill info so far, thanks again.

 

[Scrit]

Hi griffin

I think what DavidP was trying to get across is that glue does not work as a filler in gaps, the edges of the timber must be a good tight fit with no gaps and be held under a small amount of pressure to get the maximum strenth out of the glue, i.e. ti generate a thin glue line. As long as the joint is held firmly together and rigidly during the curing period you'll achieve a strong joint. Initial setting on most PVAs is between 15 and 60 minutes with full strength after 24 hours in a warm, dry environment, so leave it all clamped up for a day. BTW in this case your "clamps" could be as simple as masking tape, so long as they hold the joint firmly closed until the glue is cured.

Scrit