Makira Multi Tool Depth Stop

Joined
18 Feb 2023
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
I need to lift a load of tongue and groove floorboards and I already have a few LXT tools so i want to buy a compatible multi tool for the job, but i cannot find a Makita branded depth stop. I don't trust myself not to go in too deep and potentially catch a wire or pipe Every other brand appears to make their own depth stop. Does anyone know if there is a Makita branded/compatible depth stop?
 
Sponsored Links
There are blades with depth scales marked on them. Or just use a piece of brightly coloured electrician's tape wrapped roundcthe blade or a Sharpie marker line. By every other brand I have to assume that you mean Festool and Fein - never seen a depth stop on other brands (but then, I have both a Festool and a Makita, and don't really see much of a need for a depth stop)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Assuming it has a nose off some sort, then a block or baton off wood the thickness required to stop progress will give you a crude depth stop
but you need the machine to be near vertical as a lean towards the blade side will both angle the cut and cut deeper the amount depends on the pivot point and conversely the other way will cut shallower
 
Dewalt and Bosch do their own as well. Might have to go the baton route.
 
Sponsored Links
Some semi circular blades will bottom out on the mounting boss, the lidl and aldi ones do at 18mm which is useful for chipboard floors.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230218_152241271.jpg
    IMG_20230218_152241271.jpg
    223.5 KB · Views: 64
There are blades with depth scales marked on them. Or just use a piece of brightly coloured electrician's tape wrapped roundcthe blade or a Sharpie marker line. By every other brand I have to assume that you mean Festool and Fein - never seen a depth stop on other brands (but then, I have both a Festool and a Makita, and don't really see much of a need for a depth stop)

I have used the depth stop on my Festool quite a few times. Eg, when using the "Japanese" toothed blades to make cuts where the substrate behind is concrete or when I know that there is a cable or pipe behind something.

Admittedly I haven't used the 90 degree plunge base for a while but only because I haven't had reason to pay £75 for 5 new long blades.

Being a tight git, I purchased the Fein adaptor which lets me use regular (star) blades. They end up being off set but about 5 degrees but I can live with that> I don't want to pay premium prices for sacrificial blades

I am also annoyed that even though I got the plunge attachment at a knock down price of about £80-90, two years later they released a version with dust extraction. That said, the kit included the depth stop "pin" and depth stop "fence" for long cuts.
 
Some semi circular blades will bottom out on the mounting boss, the lidl and aldi ones do at 18mm which is useful for chipboard floors.
yes i have a box full off them as well as grit edge and sanding pads all the ones never used :giggle:
(y)
 
I have to say I more often use a circular saw set to the right depth - faster and easier to make a perfectly straight cut with the depth of cut set exactly (especially if I'm using a plunge saw and rail). Given that if the floor has been properly glued and screwed the cut-out piece is going to be scrap and need replacing, speed and accuracy wins out for me every time
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top