Take the details stamped on the bar near the body of the saw and search online. View attachment 267161
Hi to remove. "First remove Battery". Pull brake bar back so chain revolves! on right-hand side there is a black bit which has pull out lever flip out and turn to undo/slacken bar off will soon see/feel if doing correct direction!
Once chain slack undo cover full remove cover then flick chain back so can get off sprocket(Not sure what type of sprocket and how brake is on those as mine are Brum brum types)
As getting conflicting pictures of them but does look like it's an internal brake that works on gear!? So chain should be easy to remove from round sprocket you will remove easily with bar.
Once bar/chain off check and clean bar ie rake out grooves check oil holes are clear and oil/grease nose sprocket?.
Plus once had a while sprocket will need changing "you will see grooves appearing on each end of slots that links seat in" most sprockets are 7slot so there like clean slots around it once worn you see more marks wider than slot you will always get some once used but once get deeper need changing.
Again not sure if leccy saws have rim or hub sprockets but more likely there rim which is just a ring that slots onto keyed spline of output shaft and held by a clip.
Once all ready to replace put chain around bar "Making sure teeth point forwards! ie cutting edge" Yes people put on backwards! Then place on locating part as guide chain around sprocket once happy looking Dandy? Replace cover start tightening adjuster up and pulling the chain along bar a bit to make sure located correctly!
Then if happy bar/chain on right place saw on flat surface then place something under nose/tip of bar to raise it so front of saw is just of ground etc (It's way to set bar correctly so chain rides and tensioned right as if bars nose down chain will always be dropped off cutting edge of bar so will soon derail) so once that's done keep tensioning adjuster/bar/chain "with brake off!" and you want it to be so you can just in middle of bar left chain up on top edge/side so some drive teeth are just proud of bar it's a +/- job giving it a fine tune once been run and used as will stretch a tad once been cutting but you want it roughly loose but not so hangs below but not so tight it's binding as esp with 18volt batteries will soon use up if running tight.
The bar fits on in either direction so you flip over after so long "writing upwards/downwards" But chain only goes one direction! Later if use a lot ie quite a few chains you redress bar to take burs off edges as they mushroom out from wear.
Do you need/use the full bar? as you can change it to 12 or 14" which will give you more chain speed/battery life over 16" and 12" will cut 24" roughly as you can do from either side.
plus the higher Amp Batteries run machine faster as more current drive/headroom.
Get yourself a Sharpening kit as you should buff chain every so often good time is when refill chain oil then a main sharpen each time go to use or once a week if just chopping up few bits of firewood?
If edges get dulled drains battery quicker plus creates heat build up which you don't want.
What Chain oil you use?
If using reg you can buy in 5litre or bigger drums rather than litre
Not sure what your issue is, could you please explain?
The one I linked to from SF fits
Bar measures from lugs area to tip and that chain will be looking shorter once on bar plus amount to loop over drive sprocket.
Bottom side of chain ie drive links there are numbers they tell you what chain it is so can look up say 36 and will be a 3/8 063 say!
Any chain will fit as long as 3/8th 043 low profile and teeth count right
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