Male cut worktop jig out of square

[chirpychippy]

Despite doing an out of square cut on the male on a number of occasions and it being ssuccessful, I am still wondering whether I should actually be removing both pegs on the jig. What throws me is the pegs themselves:

Let me explain: regardless of whether the cut is 1 or 5 degrees out only one of the two male pegs will be touching the post form edge. Thus where my confusion begins, if the worktop is on the bench face side up post form edge to the left, if I have to pull the right hand side of the jig forward towards me then the back peg is touching the post formefd edge and the front peg is not. Does the front peg being away from the PFE change the cut whereas if I removed the rear peg and slid the jig so the front peg is touching then the cut remains true but out of square still

A gold medal for the person that can get their head around my question?

Thank you

 

[Norcon]

Female cut first.
Then set in place the piece to receive the male cut pressed tight to the wall.
Then set the female side on top again pressed tight to the wall (then adjust so the female starting cut is aligned with the post formed edge) and mark the line for the male cut.
Then transfer this line to the bottom.
Measure back the depth of the bush (9mm) and set the template to this line.
Then only the end pegs will register for the male cut.
Simples.

 

[^woody^]

Do the mitre square and cut the worktop into the plaster

 

[Norcon]

Do the mitre square and cut the worktop into the plaster

Won't that alter the distance between the cabinets and the post formed edge?

 

[^woody^]

Won't that alter the distance between the cabinets and the post formed edge?

In extreme out of square walls yes. But the angles should be checked first and the base units can be jigged about if need be.

I tend to find that this is easier than faffing with the template. But that's just me, it might not work for everyone.