Mazda 3 Locking transmitter

[Humph]

Hi

I have a Mazda 3 04 reg, it comes with a separate transmitter for locking and unlocking. Since yesterday I have to press both the lock/unlock buttons twice to get car to respond. Upon the first press of either lock/unlock the car makes a noise as if locking/unlocking but have to press again for indicators to flash and for doors to actually respond. Car was MOT yesterday so not sure if related and my mechanic went on holiday this morning so can't contact him.. Does this sound like a programming issue or could it be that the battery is on its way out ??

Thanks in advance

 

[Belle427]

Could just need a new battery as you suggest, try this first before moving on to reprogramming.

 

[Humph]

Changed battery in remote fob today and still the same. Managed to speak to the MOT centre today where it was done and they claim that my car battery went flat during test ??? and was off for around 20 minutes or so but offered me no solution at all. So i'm still with remote that has to be pressed twice before it works. I also rang the main dealer but they couldn't help without me making an appointment ???

 

[Burnerman]

What...your battery went flat during the MOT test
What the hell were they doing? Just leaving the lights on with the engine off?
John

 

[Humph]

I've no idea, i explained that my car was taken to them for mot, gave the make and model and his reply was "oh, the car with the flat battery" ???
Asked him to expand and he just said your battery went flat.. Pretty rude to be honest and so i'm stuck with problem... I will be paying them a visit when I get chance to ask what they did but that probably isn't going to help rectify my problem...

 

[Burnerman]

I think you need to get your battery condition checked, and also the charging system.....thats a swift enough job.
If that doesn't restore your remote locking, I guess the Mazda dealer would reprogram the key for you. Again, that should only take a minute or two.
John

 

[Humph]

Just checked my battery with a multi meter and it reads 12.4v, car has been sat unused for about 5 hours. I'm no mechanic so have been sat watching you tube videos and I think 12.4v means its okay so that rules out battery. Which makes me more curious as to why garage said it went flat ?? They defnatley had battery disconnected though as display clock was 20 minutes behind, but cant understand why ??

 

[Burnerman]

Even if the battery is knackered it will still read a voltage like that......try again with the lights on and see if it drops.
With the engine running, look for 14.4v and not much less with the lights on.
When cranking, the voltage shouldn't drop below 11v.
John

 

[Humph]

Ok, thanks for advice. I'll try that in the morning and see what happens..
Thanks again

 

[Humph]

Did checks this morning.
Engine cold - 12.4v
Engine running - 14.3v
Engine running with lights on - 14.2v
Engine off with lights on - 11.8v

 

[Burnerman]

The charging system is fine there, but I think your reading with engine off / lights on is a little low - which may indicate your battery capacity is down a bit.
Easy enough to check with a heavy discharge meter, at a motor factors for example.
John