measuring..

S

Sombrero

has always been my bugbear... i do a lot of DIY, and am quite confident, especially in any activity involving timber.

But my issue arises when it comes to accurate measurment. and especially drawing a pencil line to cut to...

if you measure a length with a tape or a straight edge, and mark it with a pencil, you're out by the radius of the pencil based on where it was touching the straight edge. You could use a stanley knife, but that's not always convenient.

And even if you sharpen a pencil, and get as close, when you cut it, do you cut out the pencil mark, cut up to it, or try to split it?

And what about trying to measure the internal length of a box, or window frame etc.. where the tape measure curls round the corner.... how do you get accurate on that?
 
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You could try a dedicated marking knife. Paul Sellers refers to this as a "knife wall". Look him up on U tube and see a true master at work.

It does depend on what your making and the saws your using.
I have a Lie neilson dovetail saw and the blade is so thin you can cut right on the knife mark and acheive good results.
 
You could try a dedicated marking knife. Paul Sellers refers to this as a "knife wall". Look him up on U tube and see a true master at work.

It does depend on what your making and the saws your using.
I have a Lie neilson dovetail saw and the blade is so thin you can cut right on the knife mark and acheive good results.

Interesting info.

But lets say you're putting in a seal around a shower tray (or window) and it will be mitred at 45deg. Two mitred points coming together take up a bit of the space of an absolute measure between the walls . So how much do you allow?

And to answer my own question earlier, with the tape measure bending round the internal corner, use 2 bits of dowel or thin offcuts, and slide them out until they reach the corners, then hold them (or sellotape them) and measure their combined length.
 
So how much do you allow?

That needs to be spot on. I'd saw it slightly larger and then try a fit and then trim it down a little more until its a perfect fit.
 
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So how much do you allow?

That needs to be spot on. I'd saw it slightly larger and then try a fit and then trim it down a little more until its a perfect fit.

Agreed, that's a good approach.. although a bit too much patience when it involves walking up 2 flights of stairs each time!

However, the reality is that the cross cut mitre saw actually cuts at 45.8 degs.... so gap appears...

Good to know that it's not an exact science though!
 
For an artisan like Paul Sellers I think it go's beyond an "exact science".
Have you watched him yet? As I said, a true "master".
 
Err... Paul Sellers = 51,900 results....

Any suggestions on a good 'measuring 'episode'?
 
To measure the inside of a box or window, the answer is string. Use it then measure the string. As for cutting correct length it must be either you can or you can't
 
you don't have to worry about the loose bit on the end of the tape affecting your measurement
The whole point of that 'loose bit' is to NOT affect the measurement.
The distance it moves is the exact thickness of the end clip. If it didn't move, either internal or external measurements would be out by the thickness of the end clip.

If using a tape, get one which has the same measurements on both edges - certainly not one of those useless efforts which have inches and cm on the same tape.
Metric only tapes are readily available.
If you want inches only, then look for online sellers based in the USA.
 
if you mark on a board with a pencil cut out half the pencil mark

mark against a surface leave the line in or take it all out dependant off inner or outer edge

in an enclosed area[between walls] measure from one wall to a easy to remember point[1m or 2m for example] and mark then measure from the other side to the mark and add together

if you are doing repetitive marking mark the tape and transfer that mark
 
I was always taught to cut on the way side of the line then it doesn't matter how thick the line is.Ironically In days before chop saw's and Stanley tapes you needed to be more acurate first time with only a 36"rule but you might use a pinch rod to help thing's out or just some nous skill and end grain plane.
 

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