Media wall unit (Fake fire place)

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I have to knock a fake chimney breast for my mum which is to house an electric fire and TV with an access panel to the side to allow a sky box to be installed within the "wall".

Something like my drawing below is what i am looking for

IMG-20220908-WA0019.jpg


Am i right in thinking the following for construction;

1) 4x2 studwork (is this excessive)
2) Line with 12mm Ply
3) Overboard with plasterboard
4) Skim


Is there anything else i need to be aware of before i start.
 
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Future proofing the hole size for when the TV needs replacing, how will you clean the dust out of the void behind the TV (and off the top of the TV vents behind) especially the 'cill' under the TV, adequate ventilation especially with a heat source below, ensuring you can replace any faulty cables, TV's not at eye level can lead to neck ache and can be uncomfortable to watch. Others will no doubt add their two pennies worth ....

A few other threads on this if you do a search including one classic on what not to do: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/tv-feature-wall-tv-does-not-fit.588462/

When I've occasionally been involved in mounting built-in screens in exhibitions/attractions etc they've often utilised a bracket that allows the TV to pivot forwards or to move horizontally outwards to gain access to the space behind for maintenance etc.
 
Last edited:
I have to knock a fake chimney breast for my mum which is to house an electric fire and TV with an access panel to the side to allow a sky box to be installed within the

View attachment 279460

Am i right in thinking the following for construction;

1) 4x2 studwork (is this excessive)
2) Line with 12mm Ply
3) Overboard with plasterboard
4) Skim
1) 4 x 2 is excessive, 2 x 2 CLS or PSE would be more than adequate - modern TVs are real lightweights even the big ones

2) I'd line with 12mm MDF instead of plywood or PB - if only because done right it paints out better than plywood. It is the framework which gives you the strength. MDF is also cheaper than plywood

3) Overboard with 12mm MDF rather thsman PB This avoids the need to board, corner bead, scrim and skim - so a cleaner, faster process which takes one less skill set and will be ready to paint much, much faster

4) See 3, above

The joints between the unit and the existing wall can be caulked before painting

As a long time fit-out wallah (joiner) I'd generally tend to use MDF over PB because it's much faster, there's less mess and the finished surface paints out better with crisper edge details
 
Thanks for the responses. I will reduce the size of the studwork and look at using MDF. Will the MDF give as good a fixing as ply?

I also plan to install a tv bracket so that the tv can be pulled out of the recess and also tilted down as suggested. I can then cut a few ventilation holes behind the TV to help with airflow.

I will oversize the rebate to allow for potential future increase in tv size.
 
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Thanks for the responses. I will reduce the size of the studwork and look at using MDF. Will the MDF give as good a fixing as ply?
Yes, but if in doubt run a horizontal piece behind the MDF. Not a bad idea with plywood, either, if you intend to be pullingthe TV anout on an adjustable bracket. After all, 12mm is not a lot of material to hold screwx

I also plan to install a tv bracket so that the tv can be pulled out of the recess and also tilted down as suggested. I can then cut a few ventilation holes behind the TV to help with airflow.
See my comments above
 

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