Metal Clad Sockets: Advice installing

[B Wilde]

Hi,

I'm planning to install some basic Screwfix metal clad sockets into an outdoor workshop that has chipboard interior walls. I'm conscious these sockets are typically installed as part of a grid system with conduit. In this case, however, the 2.5mm cable runs behind the chipboard walls.

It seems as though a number of metal clad sockets don't have rear knock-outs though which got me wondering - is there any reason why a metal-clad socket couldn't be installed directly onto the chipboard with rear cable entry in this way?

Advice appreciated,

Many thanks
Ben.

 

[333rocky333]

Its often done, just put a grommet in the metal hole, as there usually partly spaced off anyway, alternatively use a 20mm hole in the box and a larger hole in the chipboard so the box still lays flat.
Mk have a knockout in the back of the box.
Some boxes have different amount of knock outs in the top face to the bottom, I like to keep the upper faces the same, ie with the least amount of knockouts.
Any reason why not to flush in a box and fit normal metal front sockets

 

[B Wilde]

Thanks that's super helpful.

Any reason why not to flush in a box and fit normal metal front sockets

Not sure why this hadn't occurred to me! Agree it would look a lot nicer flush. While I've not found any cheap rugged metal-clad faceplates for sale without the backboxes, I'm guessing easy enough to buy complete units and then just mount flush to the wall using a drywall patress...?

Thanks again

 

[AndyPRK]

You will need to order some longer M3.5 screws

 

[B Wilde]

Many thanks

 

[sparkwright]

.

 

[333rocky333]

Thanks that's super helpful.



Not sure why this hadn't occurred to me! Agree it would look a lot nicer flush. While I've not found any cheap rugged metal-clad faceplates for sale without the backboxes, I'm guessing easy enough to buy complete units and then just mount flush to the wall using a drywall patress...?

Thanks again

You will find most £5 surface metalclad fronts will usually look crap flush mounted as they are smaller than standard, barely bigger, if any, than any flush backbox hole, you would need to check overall measurements i was thinking standard Brushed steel , non flatplate socket fronts, like below, under £5, how rugged do they need to be, even the best Mk are partly plastic so not indestructible.

Mk surface sockets are larger and the only ones i know, that will fit nice, even when used flush, without the supplied surface box, they are dearer at £14 Screwfix, but i think best on the market, outboard switches better if you wear Gloves but double the price.

If you can cut in metal boxes, then fronts always fit better than on Drywall boxes.
If you fit some fronts on drywall boxes they stand off a fraction from the finished board, though the Mk surface ones used without the box are flanged and will fit totally flat over a dry wall box but i still tend to snip the corners off the drywall box as the corners often foul and prevent it fitting totally flat.

 

[B Wilde]

Thanks for the advice! Some great ideas there I will definitely utilise. Thanks again.

 

[plugwash]

https://www.dungannonelectrical.co.uk/Search-Results?prodref=K2945+ALM&category=pg_SOCKETS897381 has the outboard rocker ones for 17.29 ex vat (20.748 inc).

But I do think MK take the **** on price for many of their products.