Hello all, I have microcbore heating (old system) and the radiators take ages to warm up and some not very well, so after reading posts and searching I believe the system is easily sludged up more than a normal system due to smaller pipes. Would a X400 clean help or is a powerflush required? If so I will arrange a power flush with my local plumber. ANy advice/experience on this would be brilliant.
Microbore heating, sludged up? Power flush needed?
- Thread starter timdouvier
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using x400 in your system for about 4 weeks will do no harm, can only do good
pop it in and follow instructions
after 4 weeks, drain system, and give a couple of mains water flushes, add inhibitor refill and vent system
if you think there has been a marked difference, its up to you where you take it from there
pop it in and follow instructions
after 4 weeks, drain system, and give a couple of mains water flushes, add inhibitor refill and vent system
if you think there has been a marked difference, its up to you where you take it from there
Ok thanks I will do this.
One question, how do I do a couple of cold flushes after? Do you mean re-fill the whole system and then drain it again, twice? Sorry If this sounds a silly question. If this doesn't do the trick, or completely clear it, would a powerflush be a lot more helpful?
One question, how do I do a couple of cold flushes after? Do you mean re-fill the whole system and then drain it again, twice? Sorry If this sounds a silly question. If this doesn't do the trick, or completely clear it, would a powerflush be a lot more helpful?
Yes and yes......refill from empty twice and if it doesn't produce significant improvement then get is flushed profesionally
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N
namsag
Powerflushing on microbore with twin entry valves does not work and it is not that succesfull with valves at either side ,
Blockages are usually in the manifolds and best to cut out and clear those.
x800 might be a better option
Blockages are usually in the manifolds and best to cut out and clear those.
x800 might be a better option
X800 is for powerflushing. Would it be OK to use that in my system without powerflushing it then? Is it stronger chemicals?
some manifolds can be unbolted from the microbore . Did one rad-luckily only 1- at my boy`s house. Drained system , took off offending micro pipe , and with a few connectors etc. Blew it out with the mains - open end held out of front window. Worked a treat
. Did one rad-luckily only 1- at my boy`s house. Drained system , took off offending micro pipe , and with a few connectors etc. Blew it out with the mains - open end held out of front window. Worked a treat One quick question: where are the manifolds likely to be please?
Hello Tim
Please be VERY careful when adding x400 or 800 to your system. If you have 8mm microbore you stand the chance of making your problem worse.
Most systems have a mix or different rust types n them - some larger pieces and the very fine magnetitie that turns the water black.
The x400 allows the sludge to loft into suspension within the system. If you have any parital blockages caused by larger bits of rust you Might find that they get worse because of the magnetite getting ctuck there.
If you have 10mm it's not so much of a problem.
Sometimes the manifolds are close to the airing cupboard. Look for 'hotspots' on the floor.
The most experience specialist in your area is Bob Jones of SPS, website powerflushuk.com. He's a good guy and very experienced with all types of system.
Hope this helps
Ian
Please be VERY careful when adding x400 or 800 to your system. If you have 8mm microbore you stand the chance of making your problem worse.
Most systems have a mix or different rust types n them - some larger pieces and the very fine magnetitie that turns the water black.
The x400 allows the sludge to loft into suspension within the system. If you have any parital blockages caused by larger bits of rust you Might find that they get worse because of the magnetite getting ctuck there.
If you have 10mm it's not so much of a problem.
Sometimes the manifolds are close to the airing cupboard. Look for 'hotspots' on the floor.
The most experience specialist in your area is Bob Jones of SPS, website powerflushuk.com. He's a good guy and very experienced with all types of system.
Hope this helps
Ian
X800 is a non acidic cleanser which is designed to work faster ( 2-4 hours ) than X400 ( 4-6 weeks! ).
Both only loosen the dirt but dont dissolve it.
Most of us find that whilst those chemicals can help in many microbore systems only a chemical which dissolves the dirt is very effective. They are usually citric acid based but they can cause leaks in valves or even rads. So using them should only be when the potential hazards are fully understood.
I usually add the acid in small quantities at a time as this reduces the risk although it takes longer.
Tony
Both only loosen the dirt but dont dissolve it.
Most of us find that whilst those chemicals can help in many microbore systems only a chemical which dissolves the dirt is very effective. They are usually citric acid based but they can cause leaks in valves or even rads. So using them should only be when the potential hazards are fully understood.
I usually add the acid in small quantities at a time as this reduces the risk although it takes longer.
Tony
thanks all for your help
what is the name of the chemical that dissolves the sludge/dirt, I will try it this weekend in small doses as suggested.
Also do I just add it via the header tank and drain water out from my drain off valve downstairs?
what is the name of the chemical that dissolves the sludge/dirt, I will try it this weekend in small doses as suggested.
Also do I just add it via the header tank and drain water out from my drain off valve downstairs?
Fernox DS40 as sold in the round plastic tub.
Avoid the rectangular cardboard box. That seems to be about the same composition but not as much acid although there is a lot of red indicator in it.
I have not completed my assessment of this new one but I will probably end up saying add a bit of it to the other type in order to use the excellent indicator to see when the acid has been used up when it turns pale green.
Tony
Avoid the rectangular cardboard box. That seems to be about the same composition but not as much acid although there is a lot of red indicator in it.
I have not completed my assessment of this new one but I will probably end up saying add a bit of it to the other type in order to use the excellent indicator to see when the acid has been used up when it turns pale green.
Tony
My system is microbored, and as you chaps mention, my rads have the twin entry valves. Just out of curiosity, am i right in thinking that my system will have a manifold, whats the working principle, and what do they look like etc........I too have been considering a powerflush or a chemical flush, but im a bit worried about it casuing leaks at joints etc etc. The radiators seem to warm thoroughly and in good speed....its more to keep the boiler in good form really as we had it replaced nearly two years ago.....Is a chem flush really as simple as draining the system, then literally refilling and adding the chemical as mentioned above? as i may attempt that my self when the weather warms up.
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