Miele T7744C not drying

[Sam12]

Hi,
I'm having a problem with my miele dryer. When I put in a load, it runs for approximately 30s and then the buzzer rings and the finish light comes on. I have tried using a timed load, in this case the dryer does heat up but the clothes come out damp (and very hot).
I've pulled out the condenser unit at the bottom and cleaned it but that has made no difference.
I've managed to get the error code - 1265 and the machine is around 5 years old. Would really appreciate any help with this.
Thanks.

 

[fidom]

There is very little information available on Miele error codes and I've certainly never heard of 4 digit ones, usually they are in the format F** eg F51 or F24. You could check if the fan is spinning and make sure the inlet to the water tank isn't blocked with fluff.

 

[zipper]

1265 is not an error code.
The only way you can get anything remotely like that number is by entering service mode (mistakenly or otherwise) & reading the operating hours counter.

 

[Sam12]

Thanks for taking the time to reply guys.
Obviously you're right, I've been reading posts on other miele dryers and tried to extract the error code based on advise given to them but clearly it hasn't worked.
I've checked the inlet to the water fan and that is clear. Not quite sure the best way to check the fan, do I need to open it up?

 

[zipper]

Make sure the air-paths/condenser, filters, etc are clear. Then go back into service mode (as outlined in a couple of recent Miele posts on here) & retreive a valid error code. If the machine doesn't work on a residual dampness cycle...but does on a timed one then there are only a few possible culprits.

 

[Sam12]

I've checked the pathways and filters, etc and they all clear. The error code coming up is F6. As previously mentioned, the machine is heating up on a timed load but the clothes aren't drying, they are just coming out steamed and damp.

 

[zipper]

There is no F6 error code on this model...there is an F66. Is this what you have?

 

[Sam12]

Yes, it is in fact F66. As the digits were flashing one at a time I didn't pick up on it.

 

[zipper]

F66 is normally a product of a blocked air-path. Now I know you said you have checked this but did you also remove the two removable filters in the door opening? If they appear dusty white then the pores are blocked with remnants of detergents & softeners. These need to be regularly scrubbed in soapy water to remove deposits. Have you removed the heater cover/heater & vacuumed any fluff that might be blocking flow? (this is also an air-path). Also vacuum behind the heater bank & make sure the NTC probe isn't clogged with fluff. If that doesn't help post ALL the numbers on the door sticker. Some versions of this model had recalls due to a batch faulty NTC's. I need the machine number to check if yours is one of them.

 

[Sam12]

The two filters in the door opening are fine, they've been cleaned recently and there's no fluff lurking beneath them. Can you tell me where the heaters are and how I get to them, I'm afraid I'm new to this. Thanks.

 

[zipper]

Heater cover is the large diamond shaped panel at the rear. You will need a T20 torx driver. Don't forget to pull the plug before you start dismantling anything

 

[Sam12]

I removed the rear panel and there's no fluff there. I've removed the heater unit and apart from some dust clinging to the sides, that seems clean too. I assume that the NTC probe is one of the two wired connections to the heater unit?, in which case its clean. Also behind the heater, it's clear. Not going to be quite as straight forward as I had hoped. Anyway I've included a photo of the door sticker with all the details on and would appreciate if you could check it out. Thanks
View media item 49139

 

[zipper]

Yours is not one of the models that need a modification. However that is no guarantee that the NTC is ok. They don't fail very often but it does happen every now & then. You should confirm the integrity of the NTC be measuring its resistance at room temp (should be around 125kohm at 20C), then pop the probe tip in very hot water (85C) & check if the resistance drops rapidly to around 10kohm. The NTC is the sensor without spade connections.

 

[Sam12]

Okay, I've pulled out the probe and having tried to measure the resistance at room temp, I'm getting nothing, no continuity on it at all. Does that mean it's faulty?

 

[zipper]

Depends if your multimeter can read up to 125kΩ. I don't know if you have a top of the range auto-ranging fluke or a hobby multimeter that only goes up to 2000 ohms. If in doubt pop into your local domestic appliance workshop & ask them to check it for you.