Mist Coat - gone horribly wrong

[richard2558852]

I had my bathroom replaced and a spart of this the walls and ceilings were replastered.

I decided to do the miost coat yestersday in preparation for painting next week. I think I have done it wrong.

I used Johnstones White Matt paint and watered it down to anout 1 parts water to 4 parts paint, it was very very runny and I tried rollering in on the ceiling and it just driped all over me. So I added some more paint back in and mixed well. It applied much more easily and was like something between single and double cream in consistancey. I can't help think I have mucked up and put it on too thick. Whatd can I do.

 

[Notch7]

If it has dried and is not coming off then it should be fine.

sometimes if using a really thick emulsion paint on plastered walls that are really polished smooth, the paint bond to the shiny surface.

 

[richard2558852]

If it has dried and is not coming off then it should be fine.

sometimes if using a really thick emulsion paint on plastered walls that are really polished smooth, the paint bond to the shiny surface.

I have just rubbed it with my finger this morning about 14 hrs after applying and there is a paint residue on my finger. If it fails what are my options?

 

[securespark]

Is the room cold and damp?

Last Saturday, we painted my P-i-L's panelled wooden back door. When we came back last Sunday, the paint on the thick parts was dry, but on the thinner panels, it was dripping with condensation and in places, we could see moisture getting in. I wiped the excess paint off and turned the heating up to dry it off.
They have decided on a new door.

 

[richard2558852]

Is the room cold and damp?

Just a bit cold at the moment, its a bsathroom but not used since painting or about 12hrs before

 

[Wayners]

Reading instructions.
Seal absorbent surfaces first with a coat of emulsion thinned up to 10% with clean water.
You can use bathroom scales to measure the amount of water added to paint

 

[securespark]

I might be tempted to do a couple of patches, leave it a few hours and come back and see how they're doing.

 

[mrrusty]

Just use this straight out the bucket https://leylandtrade.com/products/walls-and-ceilings/Super-Leytex-Matt

 

[opps]

Just use this straight out the bucket https://leylandtrade.com/products/walls-and-ceilings/Super-Leytex-Matt

That needs to be thinned- 1 part water to 9 parts paint

https://leylandtrade.com/kentico/getmedia/0a062d16-3aed-4da5-a6f2-56466e0fec7c/13540-LEYT_Product-datasheet-update_V4_Part17.pdf?ext=.pdf

It is also the wrong paint to use in areas that are subject to moisture.

A few years ago I was on site to hand paint MDF cabinets. The customer mentioned that when they shower, the ceiling temporarily turns black. Turns out that the builder had painted the ceiling with the Dulux Trade version of the paint that you linked to. It temporarily absorbs all of the moisture.

I hate those low latex paints. They were designed for plaster that hasn't finished drying. By design, they are "bodge" paints. Paints that are to be applied prematurely.

Sorry, I am not in any way being critical of you. I know many decorators that use those paints because they are better at covering new plaster but they cause many problems. One of the jobs that I am currently doing- the customer's father used correctly diluted Leyland Super Leytex as a base coat on the newly plastered walls. I assumed that he had used a diluted regular matt paint, and so I applied two coats of full fat Farrow and Ball paint over it. It barely passes the fingernail test.

The reason for diluting the first coat of emulsion is to reduce the level of "suction"- the rate at which the substrate absorbs water. Water based paints cure through a process called coalescence. As the water evaporates off, the molecules in the paint shrink down and bond. If the plaster is too absorbent, the coalescence process fails. When rolling a second coat, the roller may pull the first coat off in whole sheets.

A problem with those low latex paints is that as intentionally absorbent paints (two way- allowing moisture out), they do little for the level of suction when applying regular paints over them. The new regular emulsion should be thinned, perhaps slightly less though.

As a decorator, my advice is to only use them when a builder wants a paint finish over not quite dry plaster and he doesn't care about problems further down the line.

 

[mrrusty]

I bow to your superior experience - and I have learned something . I was put on to this ages ago by a decorator, and have used it several times, undiluted, on new plaster without problems, but I'm not a decorator...

 

[Brigadier]

As a decorator, my advice is to only use then when a builder wants a paint finish over not quite dry plaster and he doesn't care about problems further down the line

Like those Nick Knowles-type programmes, where they tart up a house in two days?

 

[opps]

I bow to your superior experience - and I have learned something . I was put on to this ages ago by a decorator, and have used it several times, undiluted, on new plaster without problems, but I'm not a decorator...

I have known people that have used it full fat, and then applied another two coats over it. Yeah, the same low latex paint over the same paint will not be an issue.

Anything else over the top though...

 

[opps]

Like those Nick Knowles-type programmes, where they tart up a house in two days?

Pre Nick Knowles, I worked in two houses that had been b/stardised by the Changing Rooms teams. The quality of work was shocking.

I was there to hand paint MDF cabinets to a very high level. On both occasions, the customer wanted to show me how awful their work was.

 

[mrrusty]

Anything else over the top though...

In fact, I've recently been using leytex as the base coat on the plaster topped with leyland vynil matt and it's been fine....I've also used other contract emulsion as base and vynil on top without issue.

 

[Notch7]

That needs to be thinned- 1 part water to 9 parts paint

https://leylandtrade.com/kentico/getmedia/0a062d16-3aed-4da5-a6f2-56466e0fec7c/13540-LEYT_Product-datasheet-update_V4_Part17.pdf?ext=.pdf

It is also the wrong paint to use in areas that are subject to moisture.

A few years ago I was on site to hand paint MDF cabinets. The customer mentioned that when they shower, the ceiling temporarily turns black. Turns out that the builder had painted the ceiling with the Dulux Trade version of the paint that you linked to. It temporarily absorbs all of the moisture.

I hate those low latex paints. They were designed for plaster that hasn't finished drying. By design, they are "bodge" paints. Paints that are to be applied prematurely.

Sorry, I am not in any way being critical of you. I know many decorators that use those paints because they are better at covering new plaster but they cause many problems. One of the jobs that I am currently doing- the customer's father used correctly diluted Leyland Super Leytex as a base coat on the newly plastered walls. I assumed that he had used a diluted regular matt paint, and so I applied two coats of full fat Farrow and Ball paint over it. It barely passes the fingernail test.

The reason for diluting the first coat of emulsion is to reduce the level of "suction"- the rate at which the substrate absorbs water. Water based paints cure through a process called coalescence. As the water evaporates off, the molecules in the paint shrink down and bond. If the plaster is too absorbent, the coalescence process fails. When rolling a second coat, the roller may pull the first coat off in whole sheets.

A problem with those low latex paints is that as intentionally absorbent paints (two way- allowing moisture out), they do little for the level of suction when applying regular paints over them. The new regular emulsion should be thinned, perhaps slightly less though.

As a decorator, my advice is to only use them when a builder wants a paint finish over not quite dry plaster and he doesn't care about problems further down the line.

I made the mistake of using budget leyland paint a latex free one - recommended by a trade decorator centre it was awful, it looked ok in the can but when rollering it on it was transparent and when dried could be sanded off way more easily than easifill.

I went out and bought Dulux trade and the opacity was 10x better -even thinned a tad for misting